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The Game of Veil

Claudia Casarino

三個女人在紐約的對話 :

「你什麼時候意識到你是猶太人?」

「當我的胡子開始長出來。」

「你什麼時候意識到你是墨西哥人?」

「當我發覺我對性的渴求比美國人強烈。」

「你是什麼時候意識到你是巴拉圭人?」

「當我到達紐約時,每個人都問我:『你是從那裡來的?』」Claudia Casarino 回。

The conversation between three women in New York:

‘When did you become aware that you are Jewish?’

‘When my beard started to grow.’

‘When did you become aware that you are Mexican?’

‘When I started to awake sexually I realised that I was hornier than American women.’

‘When did you realise that you are Paraguayan?’

‘When I arrived in New York and everybody asked me, “Where are you from?”‘ Claudia Casarino replied.

T = Toby Crispy
C = Claudia Casarino

少年時的Claudia經常從巴拉圭到紐約探望媽媽,在那裡讀書、工作,兩邊遊走。在這些旅途中,她開始意識到一個拉丁美洲人身在充滿社會印象框架的美國,作為巴拉圭女性的身份,怎樣突破重重對女性强加的陳規。

C:我常以自己的家族歷史作為我的創作源頭,不公、暴力、遷徙,從家庭縮影反映世界歷史;家中所有女性都經歷移民,她們的歷史,她們的身體,這些記憶對我來說是無可避免的話題。我試著把洋蔥逐層剝開至核心,用視覺的方式説話。

我認為用衣物來談論女性的議題,意念會較容易被理解。基本上,我們的身體就是被層層的意識形態所覆蓋著。

Tulle薄紗,常出現在西方社會女性的成年禮中,例如聖餐( quincesñeras)、婚禮、哀悼。對我來說,它的透明是服裝本身的隱喻,它覆蓋了身體,卻讓目光穿越服裝,揭示被忽視了的事物。

The young Claudia would often travel from Paraguay to New York to visit her mother, traveling between both places for studies and work. During these trips, she became aware of the status of Latin Americans living in a place charged with socio-economic stereotypes such as the United States. As a Paraguayan woman, how to break through the stereotypes imposed on women.

C: I often take my family history as the source of my creations. Injustice, violence and migration in the family reflect the history of the world at large; All women in my family have experienced migration. Their histories, their bodies, all these memories are to me unavoidable subject matters. I try to peel the onion to its core a layer at a time and take a visual approach to say things.

I think that discussing women’s issues with clothes and garments makes the idea more easily understood. Essentially, our bodies are covered in layers of ideologies.

Tulle is present in most rites of passage of women in Western societies: first communion, “quinceañeras”, weddings and also mourning. For me, its transparency is a metaphor of clothing itself. It covers the body but reveals other things. Also, I normally talk about things being overlooked. With tulle, the gaze transcends the garment.

C: 作品Trastornos del Sueño睡眠紊亂,是為非洲的阿爾及爾FIAC製作和展出,我們兩地的歷史很相似,殖民、獨立、獨裁、腐敗⋯⋯

從白色到粉紅色,再到紅色的睡衣,就像從夢想走進噩夢,就像無數的女性,從充滿期盼的遷徙,到發現被困在人口販賣網絡中。

C: Trastornos del Sueño (Sleep Disorder) is a piece I made and showed for the Algiers FIAC in Africa. Our histories are so similar. Colonization, independence, dictatorships, corruption, and more. 

These are nightgowns that go from white to red through shades of pink. Like escalating from a dream to a nightmare, like when you have a promise of a new horizon and then you find yourself trapped in the human trafficking networks. It is about that.

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Apyte Ao (Fabric crown 布皇冠), 2011

席地捲成的環狀,意念源自巴拉圭女性自製的布托環 —— 作為頭上提籃的支撐,象徵著當地婦女由殖民時代至今天,作為家庭中經濟支柱的付出;無人穿著的長裙,用上巴拉圭原產的 ao po’i 棉布製造,隱約聽見被壓抑在父權制度下的無聲抗議,以圍圈的儀式來相互擁抱,爭取平等的尊嚴。

A ring shape woven on the ground, the idea came from the head-rings Paraguay women make  – which serve as the supporting base for carrying baskets on the head. They symbolise the contributions of local women as breadwinners of their families from colonial times up till today; The long dresses, devoid of their wearers and made with ao po’i cotton produced in Paraguay, vaguely evoke silent protests repressed by the patriarchal system, as they engage in a ceremony of circles to hold each other close and seek equal dignity.

Uniforme (Uniform 制服), 2008
關於因不同的原因遷徙到不同地域的身體
Regarding bodies that have migrated to different regions for different reasons

2015年在阿根廷的Museum of Inmigration(移民博物館)的裝置展覽,黑色薄紗背後躲著隱藏自己身份的隱形人,這些制服到底是來自集中營,還是那個監獄的囚犯?

In an installation exhibition in Argentina’s Museum of Immigration in 2015, black tulle belies invisible people of obscure identities. Are these uniforms from the concentration camps or from inmates of that prison?

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Prácticas de tránsito (Practice of Displacement 遷徙的實踐), 2015

移民在巴拉圭不是新鮮事,很多女性為了自己和家人過些更好的生活,都會選擇移民。別了故土,你會是誰?你還是你嗎?可是移民不只是身體的流動,充滿希望和幻想,也充滿脆弱和痛苦。

作品提出了在遷徙途中各種不能想像的阻礙,例如是因隨身物、文件、歧視或不明動機而遭到阻撓,有時遷徙可是一種莫名奇妙的暴力。Claudia 以黑線把一些平常不過的物件繡在潔白的薄紗上,透過燈光,簡明的黑色刺繡和灰色的影子交錯出那種不能確定的結論和矛盾。

薄紗通過折疊再回彈,手指透過事物的質感,通過指尖一直思考。

Migration is nothing novel in Paraguay. Many women have opted to migrate for a better life for themselves and their families. Apart from your native soil, who will you become? Are you still you? Migration is, however, not only the movement of bodies, full of hopes and dreams, it is also filled with fragility and sufferings.

The work suggests all kinds of unimaginable obstacles during migrations, such as hindrances due to possessions, documents, discrimination or ulterior motives. At times, migration could become an astonishing violence. Claudia used black threads to embroider ordinary objects onto clean white tulle. Through lighting, simple black embroideries and grey silhouettes criss-cross into contradictions and the kind of conclusions that are never certain.

By folding small, it returns vigorously. There is a hand thinking through its fingertips, through the texture of things.

La Isla, 2017
Upholstered armchair with used shirts and mirror

C:我從2000年開始用舊衣裝飾傢俬,我也是升級改造的支持者,常穿二手或本地製造的衣服!

使用二手衣服作為我工作的一部份,巴拉圭在90年代之前是棉花生產大國,我喜歡想像回收的美國或歐洲衣物,是我們的棉花植物回到家了!

T: 你的服裝作品都是來自巴拉圭的婦女嗎?

C: 我沒有一個製作團隊,開始階段通常是我和媽媽一起製作,她有一個工作室,她幾乎一生都在縫紉衣物和傢俬布藝。我也有為一些本地的時裝品牌擔當創作顧問,我的大型裝置就非常幸運地得到他們的製作支援!我會花很長的時間向每一位縫紉師講解每件作品背後的因由。

T:那麼你對時尚的未來有什麼看法?

C:我認為改變消費或製作模式並不是個選項,我們的慾望所激發的剝削方式不能被監管,奴隸制度和污染不可能是生活風格的副作用。

C: I’ve upholstered furniture with used clothes since the year 2000. I am a supporter of upcycling as well and try to wear second hand or locally made clothes mainly. 

There is a fiction I like to tell myself as part of my work with pre-owned clothes. Paraguay was a big producer of cotton before the 90’s. I like to imagine that the used American or European clothes are the cotton plants returning. Coming back home.

T: Are all your garment works made by Paraguay women?

C: I don’t have a team, but normally start the pieces with my mother. She has a small workshop in her house, she’s worked in clothing and upholstery for all of her life. I work with some local fashion houses as creative director. I’ve been very, very lucky and had the support from local fashion brands. So I now produce the bigger scale installations there. Normally I have long talks with the people that sew the pieces. Telling them about the reasons behind each piece.

T: What are your thoughts on the future of fashion?

C: I think the change in production or consumption processes and modes are not an option. The exploitative ways our desires are provoking cannot be overseen anymore. Slavery and contamination cannot be the side effect of a lifestyle.

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Claudia Casarino

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