The Light, Feathery Dance Over The Face.

《粧紙 mekashi》by Uda

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從一條線,在臉上落下的撇捺,掌握到偏離軌道的樂趣,Uda畫的妝容,不是想要臉看起來更精緻、眼睛看起來更大那種,該怎樣畫呢他好像都沒有既定,在他的作品裡你會發現某種奇妙的東西,在不蓋過模特兒本身的特質,始終輕盈,蜻蜓點水,似在畫畫,筆和顏料在眉眼間耍樂,偶爾會像不小心灑出的顏料,那卻不是冒失。

It doesn’t appear to be UDA’s goal to make people’s faces look more refined or to make the eyes look bigger with his makeup. Those neat, simple strokes and impromptu brushes that he paints seem to happen randomly. Yet, there is something extraordinary in his work — the light, feathery dance of the pens and brushes over the face, as if, painting on a canvas. The colors and glow that set off the models’ natural beauty. Seemingly random but not reckless.

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Uda成為化妝師已30多年,作品常見於時尚雜誌、廣告、電影戲劇、時裝週等。這是留意了他很久以後才倒回來了解的資訊。原來能這麼精準的隨意,是透過30多年的實戰,筆觸自由到,你會想在自己臉上畫畫看那樣。

從2011年開始大約7年期間,他在日本雜誌《Ginza》連載了名為〈日本人美化計劃(ニッポン美人化計画)〉的欄目,不是介紹專業模特搭配潮流妝容,而是募集素人並為他們找出最能展現個性特點的化妝,教人如何跟自己的臉開心地玩。這樣的心意也連繫到後來他在2021年出版的第一本書《kesho:化粧》,以日本節氣的「72候」為題創作,四季切成72段,萬物每個仔細變化居然能在臉上微縮起來。

UDA has been a makeup artist for more than 30 years and his work is often seen in fashion magazines, advertisements, movies, dramas, and at fashion weeks — I only learnt of UDA’s background after years of admiring his work. It struck me when I realized that the precise and accurate randomness that he exercises is the result of having over 30 years of practice. I find it impossible not to wish that someday my face could be his canvas.

For about seven years starting in 2011, UDA ran a column titled, “Japanese Beautification Project”, in the Japanese magazine, Ginza. Rather than reporting on the latest makeup trends featuring professional models, the column featured makeup tutorials for amateurs that aimed to bring out the participants’ unique characteristics, while at the same time, guiding the readers to find joy in putting makeup on their own faces. UDA’s first book, Kesho: Makeup, published in 2021, is a continuation of the Beautification Project. Themed on the Japanese calendar’s 72 Kou (72 micro-seasons), the book depicts the changing seasons via makeup.

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Uda的師傅曾教導他「色、形、質感」這三點揉合起來才會形成一個好的妝容。像是每天的心情不一樣、狀態不一樣,於是同一張臉在每天醒來也微妙地跟前一天不同。氣溫濕度、昨晚睡得好不好、換季時,臉適應得有沒有時差,都會著跡。每天留意,然後練習手感。

UDA’s mentor once told him that good makeup is all about harmony between color, shape, and texture. The changes in mood and state of mind expose a different face everyday. The temperature, humidity, whether you slept well the night before, changes in season, and jet lag; all of these also affect your face. UDA was taught to pay great attention to these everyday changes and continuously practice to adapt to the variations.

最近他策劃製作了一本新刊物 —— 《粧紙(mekashi)》創刊號「α」除了收錄他本人的創作,另集結了十多位不同領域的創作者,以攝影、繪畫、拼貼、花道、文字等語言來展現一個美的實驗,裡面包含很多私人的感性,以各自獨特的角度,呈現出更廣闊的世界觀,關於美的形式、一些小念頭而產生的巨大力量。以「間(あわい・はざま・あいだ)」為主題作開首 —— 事物之間的關聯、差異產生的空間、另一個世界和這個世界之間的地帶。在不那麼確鑿之處,油然生起的姿態,會微妙地傳遞出來,讓人們都感知得到的氛圍。

Recently, UDA took up the curator role of a new publication, Mekashi. Its first issue, α, includes a collection of UDA’s own work, as well as some experiential pieces crafted by over a dozen creators who use photography, paint, collage, ikebana, and texts as mediums. Each piece is personal, emotional, and unique, presenting the readers a diversified world view, the different forms of beauty, and the power of small ideas. The issue begins with the theme, “間”, which in Japanese means the relationship between things, the space that arises from differences, and the zone between this world and the next. The debut issue of Mekashi reveals to us that whatever comes naturally and spontaneously amidst uncertainty will always be unveiled in a way that is conceivable to us.

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Uda:「就像鐘擺,從一端到另一端來回擺動,我想找到在那之間產生的快樂。」

如果要形容Uda的作品是哪一種感覺,那會是搭上異國的長途火車,透過窗戶映到臉上的風光,有樹的綠與天的蔚藍,有雨中灰濛,也有暮色昏黃,那時的每一張臉都是那麼自由。

“It’s like a pendulum, swinging back and forth from one end to the other; and I want to find the happiness that arises in between,” said UDA.

To put my feelings for UDA’s work into words: It’s like riding on a long-distance train in a foreign land. Through the reflection of the window, there is green in the trees, blue in the sky, gray in the rain, and reddish-orange in the sunset. At that point in time, everyone is living in freedom.

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