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The elegance of craftsmanship

LOEWE for Salone’18

唸時裝的時候,最高興是在縫紉室裡待著,縫紉機時快時慢地咔咔作響使人全神貫注於針線之間;印象中縫紉室旁是織布實驗室,裡頭有一部木製的織布機,坐在前面玩弄著紗線,好像能帶領人穿越時光隧道,一下子就回到舊時的手工時代。對於織一小塊杯墊都沒耐性的我,總是從心底佩服工匠們每天都坐在紗線面前,耐心地編織上數個月,甚至數年;難怪精巧細緻的毛毯總讓人有一種坐上去就能飛天的神奇感覺。

對布料非常著迷的LOEWE創意總監Jonathan Anderson,花超過一年時間找來世界各地超過100個工匠合作,發掘各種傳統的紡織技術,並結合嶄新科技來製作毛毯、掛毯和手袋等,重新展示手工藝的美好。當中包括有日本的藍染古布工藝、非洲塞內加爾的Mand Jack編織藝術、厄瓜多爾以羊駝毛製作的手織品和印度的緞帶刺繡技術等等,均由不同的印刷技師、刺繡師、針織師和紡織師合作完成,是連繫傳統和現代工藝坊的結晶品。作品不但包含了各地的傳統文化,同時體現代代相傳的生活習俗,每一針一線都是歷史的傳承。

LOEWE for Salone’18系列早於今年四月舉辦的米蘭具展中展出,其中手袋於十月在全球分店發售,毛毯和掛毯則以特別方式訂購。LOEWE把各地的傳統手工技藝,結合新技術和現代感的設計,重新帶回日常生活裡,讓我們一起感受手工藝之美。

Botanica Vertical tote bag,從英國著名等建築師、家具及布料設計師Charles Voysey的設計取材、以意大利針織而成的水果和動植物圖案掛氈提花布料所製成。 $20,800 (left)

Portrait Vertical tote bag,以德國攝影師Wilhelm Von Gloeden的《Two Young Men in Togas》,以噴墨打印於法國編織成的提花布料上。 $20,800 (right)


When studying in fashion school, my happiest moment was sticking around in the sewing room. The uneven sound from the sewing machines could always sharpen my focus on the movement of the tread. If my memory serves me right, next to the sewing room was a weaving laboratory that houses a wooden weaving loom. Sitting in front of the loom to play with the threads, I felt as if I had traveled back in time to the pre-industrial era. As a person who does not have enough patience to knit a coaster, I genuinely admire artisans who spent months or even years to weave a piece of fabric. Knowing the manufacturing process, it comes as no surprise that a fine and delicate blanket can exude a magical vibe.

The creative director of the fashion brand LOEWE, Jonathan Anderson, is himself very passionate about fabrics. He spent over a year to visit 100 ateliers on 4 continents for their time-honoured traditional craft skills. Complementing the traditions with new experimental techniques, the project aims at celebrating the charisma of artisanal skills through the collaboratively made blankets, tapestries, and handbags. The selected artisans include Japanese boro stitching, African patchwork from Togo and Senegal, Ecuadorian hand-knitted items from vicuña hair, as well as Indian ribbon embroidery. Collaborating with knitters, dyers and embroiderers, the project is the result of a dialogue between traditional and contemporary ateliers. The works depict not merely the traditional culture, but also the customs that have been passed from generation to generation; every stitch itself weaves history into the fabrics.

The LOEWE for Salone’18 series was first showcased in the Milan Furniture Fair this year in April. The handbag collection has been available internationally in the shops since October, whereas the blankets and tapestries can be ordered online. Incorporating state of the art techniques and modern design into the artistry skills, the traditional technique once again returns to a greater audience, so that their beauty can be better seen.

The Vertical Tote Botanical Bag was inspired by a design of Charles Voysey, a renowned English architect, furniture and fabric designer, and produced with fruit, flora and fauna tapestry jacquard knitted in Italy.  $20,800 (left)

The Vertical Tote Portrait Bag features a photography by the German photographer Wilhelm Von Gloeden titled Two Young Men in Togas, printed on a tapestry jacquard. $20,800 (right)

LOEWE  G14-16, G/F, Landmark Atrium, Central  2522 0996

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