DSCF2213

Small Beautiful Moments

Scallion Pancake

  • Words & Photography / Jo

那天特地買來一把日本蔥,做了鹽麴蔥醬沾烤肉吃。根及部分蔥白切去,其餘細切,拌勻鹽麴、 黑胡椒、麻油等調味料,放一會兒,讓時間把味道融和。烤得金黃的五花肉切半分薄,蘸蔥醬與白飯同吃,油脂米香與蔥的辛香在蒸氣交融,好美味。

DSCF2300

一綑蔥白仍在橡皮圈裏,我隨手放到量杯中,加點水,放在流理台一隅。然後忘了。數天後在廚房泡茶,眼角一瞥,嫩綠的蔥從蔥白中心冒出,長了近差兩吋高。要不是那明亮的顏色,它可能還要待在那角落直至被看見、被記起。這香菜物總是配角,總是被遺忘,在大部分菜式,多是擔當點綴的配角,可有可無,菜販將之作為附送品。「阿妹,要唔要蔥?」「好啊。」然後轉身在枱下的竹籮中抓兩棵蔥往我的袋裏塞。

我倒掉量杯裡混沌的水,換入清水,把杯掛在陽台上的水泥花槽,與歐芹、迷迭香、刁草和薄荷,還有徘徊在胭紅與青綠之間的小楓樹一起吹春風,曬溫柔的日光。大概一個多星期後,蔥白長成一棵蔥的模樣了,又胖又長,我剪了部分,做了兩個酥脆的蔥油餅,後來把蔥白和根種在泥土裡,希望可以再生長。

照料植物向來是我的弱點,盆栽以往來到我手上總活不了多久,這次,它們竟然都一一茁壯成長。刁草長得小樹般,比陽台的的圍欄要高,我們笑說它是傑克的魔豆,某天會長到天上去,讓我爬到天際與雲端。從花墟帶回家的睡蓮本放在細小的塑膠盆,我小心把連接花葉和根的淤泥從盆中取出,放到大盆裡,緩緩注入清水。起初,水混濁不堪,根葉交纏,蓮葉與花苞的每道縫隙都帶污泥,我想這植物大概在我手中也活不長吧,不料幾天後,淤泥沉澱,水面一片清澈,原本捲曲的深紫色新葉漸漸張開,露出綠色的葉面。花苞卻是安靜地,一個一個地,於一夜間蛻變成淡雅的花,圍繞鮮黃色的花蕊長着細嫩的花瓣,一片片由無瑕的白漸化成落霞般的紫色。睡蓮早上綻放,夜裡合起,花開十天左右,然後凋萎。水面浮萍楚楚,水下的淤泥默默長出新葉與花苞,花開花落,周而復始。在我眼裡,這朵陽台上的小花好比莫奈畫筆下的一塘睡蓮,同樣讓我感動。陽台上還有兩株不同品種的桂花樹、橙和紅的天竺葵、儼如紅燈籠的蔓性風鈴花、幾株灌木和蔓藤植物等等。某天澆水,看見非洲茉莉的泥上長了幾朵淡紫色小花,隱於葉下,過了幾天,紫花竟然變成了蒲公英。室內盆栽同樣茁壯,朋友送的蘭花、小盆景、虎尾蘭等等在家裡不同角落兀自美麗,成一道風景,而貓兒最愛早上在垂茉莉下眯起眼睛,享受日光浴,花影落在牠身上,斑斑駁駁。

DSCF2225

灌溉或施肥,鬆土或換盆,我相信每天與植物相處的短暫時刻並不全然是單向的。每個綠色生命按着節氣,以自己的步伐展現各自的成長、蛻變、韌性與循環裡不可避免的死亡。每個階段都是美麗的,安靜而深刻。這份來自自然的美與饋贈,驚鴻一瞥,沒法追求尋找,只能透過靜靜用心生活,在柔弱與堅毅之間,無意間發現,在心坎動容。

DSCF2405

I bought a small bunch of Japanese scallions the other day to make a dipping sauce with shio koji for grilled pork. Cutting off the roots and some of the white part, and finely chopping the rest, I added shio koji, black pepper, sesame oil and some other seasonings to the scallion. Mixed well and let sit for a while for the flavours to melt into each other. The pork belly was roasted to golden, cut into slices, not too thick, and to be enjoyed with the scallion sauce and steamy rice. In the steam, the fat, fragrance of rice and spiciness of the scallion came together to become a medley of deliciousness.

DSCF2281

The white parts of the scallions were still held in a rubber band. I casually put the white bunch into a measuring cup, filled it with water and put it aside on the countertop. And I forgot about it. A few days later, while brewing tea in the kitchen, I caught a glimpse of fresh green popping up from the white part of the scallion – it was almost two inches tall. It would have been entirely forgotten in the corner if not for the bright colour of the green. The vegetable is never the lead in most dishes and used to be neglected, and something good to have in cooking. Vegetable stalls always treat it as a gift-with-purchase, “Hey girl, do you want some scallions?” “Sure.” The monger then turned around to grab a handful of it from a bamboo basket under the table and put it into my shopping bag.

I drained the cloudy water in the measuring cup, filled it with clean water again, and hung it on the concrete planter housing parsley, rosemary, dill and mint, alongside a miniature Japanese maple in the transition from red to green. They could all enjoy the Spring breeze and mellow sun on the balcony. About a week later, the scallion bits grew into full size already, long and plumped. I trimmed some of it and made two crispy scallion pancakes. For the remaining white parts of the scallion, I potted them in hope of further growth.

DSCF2326

I never had green fingers. Plants wouldn’t live long under my care, but this time, they have been healthy and strong. Dill has grown into a small tree taller than the balcony fences. We said it might be the magic beanstalk in《Jack and the Beanstalk》and would take me up to the clouds and sky one day. The water lily I brought home from the flower market was sold in a small plastic pot. Carefully removing the mud that held the roots and leaves together, I placed it into a basin, slowly filling it with water. It was all murky at first. Intertwined leaves and roots, every crevice of the flower buds and leaves were smeared with mud. I thought it couldn’t survive. In a few days, the water turned clear after the mud sedimented, dark purple leaves uncurled to reveal their green faces, and the flower buds, one by one, quietly turned into an elegant piece of flower overnight. Around the bright yellow pistil grew delicate ombré petals of flawless white and purple in the hue of setting sun. The water lilies opened to the sun and closed at sunset over the course of about ten days before it started to wilt. On the water floated dainty duckweeds, under it grew young leaves and buds in silence. Bloom and wilt, a life in cycle. In my eyes, this flower on my balcony was just as beautiful as the pond of Nymphéas by Claude Monet. They touched my heart. On the balcony, there were also two pots of small osmanthus trees of different species, geranium in orange and scarlet, trailing abutilon resembling red lanterns, and some more shrubs and vines. One day when I was watering, I spotted on the soil of my Madagascar jasmine, well covered under the leaves, grew a few tiny flowers in lilac. They, to my surprise, revealed to be dandelions after a few days. The green lives indoors were also in very good shape. Orchids, miniature bonsai, snake plants and so on have made a scene of beauty of their own in different corners, while the cat, with its eyes closed into narrow slits, liked sunbathing by the swaddling flower in the morning. Shadows of the flower fell on her fur, looking motley but pretty.

DSCF2410

Watering or fertilising, loosening the soil or repotting. I believe the brief moments I spend with the plants is more than a one-way communication. At its own pace, following the seasons, each green life performs its growth, transition, resilience and the inevitable death in a circle of life. Quiet and remarkable, each stage has a beauty of its own. And this beauty and gift from nature shall not be looked for but can only be caught in a glimpse in a life of mindfulness and stillness, and between frailty and perseverance, touching your heart in unexpected moments.

DSCF2444

蔥油餅

材料 (可做兩個):

麵餅用
中筋麵粉 1 ¼ 杯
熱水 1/3 杯
室溫水 ¼ 杯
海鹽 ½ 茶匙
蔥花 1杯 (約50克)

油酥用
中筋麵粉 ¼ 杯
海鹽 ½ 茶匙
食油 2湯匙

片狀海鹽 適量
煮食用食油 適量

做法:

1  除蔥花外,將麵餅用材料放入大碗裡拌勻。拌勻後,將麵糰揉至表面光滑及不黏手,大概5分鐘。麵糰放在碗內,蓋上布,休息 1 小時。

2 將油酥材料拌勻,備用。

3 麵糰抹油,分成兩半,檊開成大約 A4 大小,抹上油酥、撒上蔥花後,在長的一邊開始捲,捲成腸粉般,然後捲成蝸牛形,尾部收在麵餅下。麵餅檊薄至1cm 左右。

4 平底鍋下油,以中火燒熱後放入蔥油餅,不時移動讓麵餅平均受熱,煎至金黃後反轉,若鍋裡太乾便加點油。煎至兩面金黃後,盛起,趁熱撒上香脆的片狀海鹽即可。

5 蔥洗淨後,要徹底瀝乾才切成蔥花,蔥白的老黃粗糙部分要撕去;油酥中的食油可以豬油或鵝油代替,會更香口;煎蔥油餅時油要多放,半煎半炸才會酥香。

DSCF2253

Scallion Pancake

Ingredients (Make two pancakes):

For the pancake dough
All purpose flour 1 ¼ cups
Hot water 1/3 cup
Room temperature water ¼ cup
Sea salt ½ teaspoon
Diced scallion s 1 cup (About 50g)

For the roux
All purpose flour ¼ cup
Sea salt ½ teaspoon
Cooking oil 2 tablespoons

Flakey sea salt To taste
Cooking To taste

Steps

1 Except for the scallions, mix the dough ingredients in a large bowl. Knead the shaggy dough for around 5 minutes till the dough is smooth and not sticking to hands. Cover the dough with a kitchen towel and rest it for an hour.

2 For the roux, mix well the ingredients and set aside.

3 Rub the dough with some oil, cut it into half and roll out each dough into roughly A4 size. Brush the roux on the sheet dough, sprinkle the scallion on it and roll it up lengthwise. Then, roll it into a swirl shape. Tuck the tail under the swirl and flatten the pancake into about 1cm thick with a rolling pin.

4 Add oil to a pan and heat it up over medium heat. Slide in the pancake and move it around occasionally for even cooking. Once the down side turns golden brown, flip the pancake. Add some more oil if the pan is dry. Take the pancake out from the pan when both sides are fry to golden brown. Sprinkle some flakey sea salt for an extra crunch.

5 Thoroughly dry the scallion after rinsing before dicing it up and remove the fibrous skin of the white part of the scallion. Feel free to replace cooking oil with lard or goose fat in the roux for a more scrumptious flavour. Be generous with the oil when frying the dough for light and crispy pancakes.

IMG_6789-2

Jo Liu

It’s raining outside, crisp and bleak. Three chubby sparrows took shelter on my balcony and I gave them the baguette bits left on my breakfast plate but they flew away. I stayed in, played Damien Rice on vinyl and made apple crumble. Repeat.

Instagram: foodialoguehk

w