⟨ Object ⟩

Cezve

Brewing coffee the turkish way.

Words / Phaedrus Lam
Illustration / Furze Chan
Translation / Ian Tsang

小巧玲瓏的體積,附上一根長手把,表面還有綴飾用的紋路。誠然最初看見這隻水壺時,一度以為是沖拿鐵咖啡時熱牛奶用的器具,然而經過店主提醒後,才知道手上這隻正是耳聞已久的土耳其咖啡壺。

在發明手沖咖啡濾紙,以及義式壓縮咖啡機以前,更早的咖啡沖泡方法,很多都類似於今日的土耳其咖啡,都是連同咖啡渣一起飲用;其風味比起主流濾渣的喝法,性格明顯強烈得多。從十六世紀開始,土耳其人用小巧的水壺,把磨得極細的豆子沖開水,端上灶頭上煮,而通常是反覆泡煮數遍,泡沫上來了就稍移離火,復又端上灶頭;時間長短因口味而異,然而絕對不能少的,則是咖啡上頭的一層泡沫;沒有了這層泡沫,土耳其人是不會輕易收貨的。

畫面左邊和中間的,都是常見的傳統土耳其咖啡壺款式,通常用擁有良好導熱性的銅料製作。至於最右邊的,則是現代不鏽鋼材料做的,其洗去了裝飾的紋路,換上輪廓硬朗的外表,然而不變的是其異常厚重的咖啡香,這是任外表再怎麼換,都不會壓得住的異國風情。

黑地
石硤尾偉智街38號福田大廈地下19-20號鋪

Being small and exquisite, it comes with a long handle, and its surface is decorated with patterns. To be frank, when I first saw this pot, I thought the piece of ware served to heat up milk for making latte. Until the shop owner pointed that out to me, hardly did I know that it was actually a cezve, a pot for making Turkish coffee which I have heard about for so long.

Before paper filter for making hand drip coffee and Italian pressure coffee machine were invented, many older ways for making coffee bore some resemblance to Turkish coffee, which is drunk with used coffee grinds inside. Compared to the mainstream way of drinking, which filters the used grinds, this type of coffee boasts a much stronger character. Since the 16th century, Turkish people started using small water pots to heat up extremely fine coffee grinds in water on the stove. when it starts to foam, the pot is removed from the heat before being putting back again after a while. This process is repeated for a few times, and the brewing time varies depending on the preference of taste, but what is indispensable is the layer of foam on top of the coffee, without which Turkish people will most probably cry foul.

The pots shown in the middle and on the left are traditional types of cezve that are most commonly seen; they are often made of copper, which is a good conductor of heat. The remaining one on the right is a modern model made of stainless steel. Without any decorative patterns, it looks tough in appearance, but what remains unchanged is the unusually strong and rich scent of coffee – it is the exotic charm it can never conceal no matter how its outlook changes.

黑地
Shop 19-20 ,G/F Fook Tin Building, 38 Wai Chi St, Shek Kip Mei