⟨ Object ⟩

NELCCO

Nel drip set by Oji Masanori

Words / Phaedrus Lam
Illustration / Furze Chan
Translation / Ian Tsang

咖啡沖煮的手法百百樣,而光是手沖這一環,要學習的專業知識和門道,加上必要的反覆練習,這份心力搞不好已經能讀個雙學士。

前陣子我最喜歡的台北店家放放堂,主辦了一場名為「二重丸」的大治將典X小野麗奈作品展,在展品當中我瞥到了這個由富士珈機出品、大治將典設計,予人深刻印象的「NELCCO」濾布手沖咖啡組。

在20世紀中旬以前,手沖製作一直以法蘭絨布為濾體,特色是可以保留較厚的咖啡油脂,卻因為濾布處理過程太繁瑣,在現代的濾紙被發明以後幾曾一度消失,不過在日本就還是有不少的濾布手沖迷,像來自九州「珈啡美美」的店主森光宗男就是一例。一心想要推廣濾布手沖咖啡,森光宗男長期以來費煞心思,有天他偶然看到大治將典「FUTAGAMI」系列的開瓶器,用後覺得愛不惜手,便直接邀請大治將典設計一台能讓人經久使用的濾布手沖咖啡組。

「NELCCO」以全手工打造,一體成型的金屬結構,其濾杯共有13個出水孔,而無論是底座的傾鈄角度,抑或是打洞位置均經過精密計算。看森光宗男的示範影片,沖煮時只消把濾布套好在濾杯底下,接著把水嘩啦嘩啦倒進濾杯,也不用做繞圈或點滴注水等動作,三分鐘後就有一杯香氣四溢、油脂濃厚的咖啡;把本應繁鎖的步驟盡量減省,讓一般人都能享受在家沖煮濾布咖啡的況味。

When it comes to methods of coffee brewing, the variety is simply immense. Within the arena of pour over coffee alone, the mind and effort needed for learning all the different ways and associated professional knowledge, as well as for the necessary repeated practice, might already rival that for studying a double Bachelor’s Degree.

My top favorite store in Taiwan, funfuntown (放放堂), organized an exhibition earlier on featuring works of Masanori Oji and Reina Ono called “Nijyumaru”. Among the exhibits, I noticed an impressive cloth filter pour over coffee set called NELCCO, which is produced by Fuji Royal and designed by Masanori Oji.

Until the mid-20th century, flannel cloth had always been used as a filter to brew coffee with a pour over. The cloth is distinguished for its ability to retain a richer amount of coffee oil in the coffee. However, since the process of using the cloth filters was too complicated, it once disappeared from view after modern paper filters were invented. However, quite a few cloth filter pour over enthusiasts can still be found in Japan, such as the late Muneo Morimitsu, who used to run Coffee Bimi in Kyushu. For many years, Morimitsu had spared no effort in promoting cloth filter pour over coffee. One day, he stumbled upon a bottle opener from the FUTAGAMI series by Masanori Oji, and he could not stop loving it after using it. He eventually decided to invite Oji to design a durable cloth filter pour over coffee set.

NELCCO is completely handcrafted and handmade, boasting an all-in-one metal structure with a filter cup that has 13 dripping holes. Not only the slanting angle of the bottom stand but also where to place the holes are decided based on precise calculations. As shown in Morimitsu’s demonstration video, brewing only requires attaching the cloth filter to the bottom of the filter cup and pour in water generously. There is no need to do such things as pouring in a circle nor controlling the dripping. A cup of aromatic coffee rich in coffee oil will be ready in three minutes. NELCCO manages to eliminate as many complicated procedures as possible so that ordinary people can also enjoy the pleasure of making a cup of cloth filtered coffee.