⟨ Misc ⟩

The subtle sophistication

nest Robe

Words / P Yue
Photography / Courtesy of nest Robe
Translation / Iris Heung

由一家昭和年代的製衣廠,經營半世紀後,毅然開創女性品牌nest Robe,並且於2004年在東京設下第一間旗艦店。談nest Robe這個品牌,肯定不能漏掉亞麻這種夢幻材質,吸汗排汗之餘,還有恆溫的效果,也為衣飾帶來自然的垂墮和飄逸感,成為品牌的標誌性材質。

不說不知道,nest Robe基本上只用長纖維細麻,這種亞麻光澤感強,而且材質來得更細膩。但正因為材質太過細膩,製紗時也必須使用傳統、低度的方式生產。染色方面品牌也是一絲不苟,堅找與日本當地的染色工房合作,從絞染,繩染到筒子紗染,起用上各種不同的天然染色工藝。

After having run its business for about half a century all the way since the Shōwa era, this old sewing factory decided to launch a whole new women’s clothing brand and subsequently opened its first standalone flagship store in Tokyo in 2004. This is the briefly-told story of the brand nest Robe. But what product features truly set the brand apart? The use of premium linen is undoubtedly one of the iconic features of nest Robe’s product. Not only does linen absorb perspiration and dries quickly, but it can also keep you cool during the hot days. Clothes made of linen hang in such a natural way that exudes a light elegance. This fabric has easily become the brand’s signature mark.

It can be easily overlooked that nest Robe essentially only uses delicate pure linen for their clothes. Not only the material has a shiny luster, but its texture is also more sophisticated. And it is exactly due to its delicate nature that traditional yarning methods must be employed for fabric production. The brand is also meticulous about the dyeing process by insisting only work with the local craftsmen. From resist-dyeing, rope-dyeing to yarn dyeing, only natural dyes and traditional crafts are utilized.

來到設計,nest Robe一直立足在「質樸」的風格上,在型錄上你看不見任何誇張、鮮豔顏色,反倒強調在衣服的飄逸和輕盈,也是大家常聽見的所謂空氣感;而雖然對大多數人而言,他們品牌設計沒甚亮點,甚至可能有點無聊,但是對擁有過nest Robe單品的讀者而言,肯定都還記得當衣服拿在手上時,布質和染色所帶給你的驚豔。

When it comes to the design, nest Robe has been consistently focusing on subtle designs that emphasize the lightness and elegance of the style. Therefore, you can hardly see anything boldly colorful or particularly eye-catching on the brand’s catalog. Perhaps, to many people, the brand’s designs are lacking highlights or even look boring at times. However, for readers who have ever owned any piece of garment from nest Robe, they would surely remember the amusement brought by the fabric texture and its dyes when holding the piece in hands.

後至的男裝系列nest Robe CONFECT,同樣秉持這份質樸,雖然挹注入工裝、軍裝元素,但由於使用的是亞麻材質,褪去工軍裝本有的剛陽氣息,換來一份更成熟世故的況味。而雖然官方將CONFECT定義作男裝,但其實女生穿起來也不違和,而似乎也沒有年齡限制;看去他們2020年的春季型錄上,體型略顯雄壯的銀髮模特兒,穿得一身氣派,倒也不失自在自然。

The men’s line CONFECT later launched by nest Robe has similarly upheld the same concept of simplicity. What’s playful is how the military-inspired workwear style is well balanced by the elegance of the linen fabric. So the masculine touch is replaced by a worldly refinement. Although this line is originally designed for men, ladies will find no problem carrying the style equally well. In the same way, the clothes seem to fit people of all ages too. On the 2020 Spring catalog shows a masculine-looking grey-haired model handsomely presenting their latest line. His easy look and manner capture the vibe of the brand perfectly well.