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Déjà Vu Bags

raregem

Words / Phaedrus Lam
Photography / Courtesy of raregem
Translation / Nathalie Lun

早在2017年,東京書店nostos books找他們合作推出「Magazine bag」時,就開始注意到raregem這個品牌。誠然raregem的品牌定位,其實是一間以東京為基地的傢俱設計工作室,只是主理人西條賢愛開小差,不專心做傢俱,反開始以品牌名義製作各式的帆布包袋,竟意外地俘虜了不少的時裝迷;不禁令人懷疑說,這根本是一個被傢俱所耽誤的時裝品牌。

In 2017, raregem collaborated with nostos books – a bookshop in Tokyo – and launched the “Magazine bag”. This was also when the shop started to garner attention from fashionistas. To most people’s surprise, raregem is – in fact – a Tokyo based furniture design workshop. Yet, shop owner Ken Nishijo seems to have as much interest in canvas bags as furniture, if not even more.

打開raregem的商品型錄,沒有太多驚豔的地方,甚至可以說大部分包款,都令人生起似曾相識的感覺。像我最喜歡的這顆「COAL BAG」,其輪廊是不是有一種L.L. Bean托特包的既視感?而如果更仔細察看,那兩道由肩帶連綿至底部的藍色虛線,靈感其實是把L.L. Bean托特包內外翻轉;其藍色虛線設計,正正來自L.L. Bean托特包的內部設計,而這個經典元素的翻玩,也可以在「MUFF」、「DELIVERY MAN」,甚至是圓筒造型的「JACK TOTE」的這幾款包上發現得到。

The raregem catalogue does not captivate with novelty. On the contrary, you get a sense of familiarity with most of the styles. My favourite is the “COAL BAG”; doesn’t it remind you of an L.L. Bean tote? The blue stitching – from the shoulder straps to the base – is inspired by the inside of an L.L. Bean tote. Other styles such as “MUFF”, “DELIVERY MAN”, as well as the bucket shaped “JACK TOTE” also embrace this inside-out play on classic detail.

除卻針對經典款的翻玩,raregem還有許多有趣的小巧思,像這款「YESSIREE」就是以粗厲堅挺的帆布料,去模仿一個塑膠袋的造型,遠看還真的能以假亂真。再來可以看看「METO2」,這一款帆布加皮革料的單肩包;聽起來很平凡的物料組合,但Raregem可不只是把皮革縫在帆布包邊緣,作為補強物料的一般作法;而是用上一整幅皮革製作成垂蓋,還附上精緻的鈕扣,讓你可以把皮革垂蓋,與帆布包身緊扣起來,最終的視覺效果出奇地逗趣,是優雅中不失玩味的代表。

If you look closely, there are more whimsical features to be discovered with raregem. You would think “YESSIREE” is a plastic shopping bag, but it is a canvas bag in disguise. “METO2” looks like an ordinary leather and canvas shoulder bag, but the fun is all in the details. Instead of only trimming the bag with leather, a whole piece of leather drapes over the bag. Together with a dainty clasp, the bag holds an elegant yet quirky shape.