⟨ Secret Place ⟩

Fotografiska

MIDNIGHT VISUAL EXPERIENCE IN STOCKHOLM

Words & Photography / Ire Tsui
Translation / Ian Tsang

斯德哥爾摩是瑞典首都第一大城市,既是政治、文化、經濟中心,更擁有全球最多博物館的城市之一,約100多座博物館和名勝。自2016年起,瑞典推行國立博物館全民免費入場,從歷史、建築、藝術、設計、文化到科學,均有質素不錯的博物館參觀,當中包括現代美術藝術館Moderna Museet和建築設計館ArkDes。然而,北歐生活物價指數高,消費咖啡、外膳、酒類、交通價格昂貴 (公共洗手間收費要價約港幣十元),商店關門時間約七時,晚上做什麼好?

主打攝影藝術的Fotografiska,開放時間至凌晨。博物館位於Slussen輪船碼頭旁邊,盡見東海岸的島嶼景色,彼岸燈火通明。Fotografiska於2010年開放,屬市內私人博物館,每年辦約二十場攝影展覽,當中有國際知名攝影師La Caphelle、 Leibovitz、 Newton等,也有瑞典本地攝影家的作品展, 如紀實攝影師Asa Sjostrom拍攝的《Silent Land》 ,她花了數年時間於歐洲最窮困國家摩爾多瓦共和國拍下大量照片,其中包括Gradinari的家庭生活,他們以土地農作自力更生,卻一年比一年艱苦,成人要外出打工,孩子留下來與外祖父母相依為命。Asa Sjostrom寧靜鏡頭下的芭蕾學校、向日葵田、人物、建築物,帶出國家景象背後的情況。知名的北歐攝影家和教育家Anna Clarén,2018年春季則展出一系列以人生難題的作品 《When Everything Changed》, 淡白溫婉的圖像背後,是家庭面對婚姻離異後的情狀,離婚、死亡、失業、生病等。 「在拍攝的這四年期間,攝影機成為了一道出口,將人際關係中的離愁別緒變成體諒、對話和反應,唯有面對自己才能夠坦誠、勇敢地面對問題。」 頂樓的餐廳和酒吧,是體驗北歐美食的推介之選,餐廳採用新鮮瑞典食材和酒品,倡議有機素食料理,菜式擺盤富藝術感,美如圖畫,食材選材獨特,鮮蔬製作素魚子、採用冰果作甜點,每口都是大自然的味道讓人回味無窮。

www.fotografiska.com


Stockholm is not only Sweden’s capital and largest city but also its political, cultural and economic center. It is also among the cities with the largest number of museums in the world. There is a total of over 100 museums and scenic spots. Since 2016, Sweden has introduced free admission for all at state-owned museums, including high-quality ones of a range of disciplines including history, architecture, art, design, culture and science. Among them are Moderna Museet, a modern art museum, and ArkDes, a center for architecture and design. However, the cost of living in Northern Europe is high, and buying coffee or alcohol, eating out and transportation are expensive (the cost to use a public toilet is around HK$10). Shops close at around 7pm, so what is there to do in the evening? 

Fotografiska, which features the art of photography, is open until midnight. Located next to the Slussen harbor, the museum commands views of the islands on the East Coast, and bright lights on the other side can be seen. Open to the public in 2010, Fotografiska is a privately-owned  museum, where approximately 20 photography exhibitions are held each year, showcasing the works of world-renowned photographers such as La Caphelle, Leibovitz and Newton, as well as those by local photographers in Sweden, including Silent Land by Asa Sjostrom, a documentary photographer. She has spent several years  in Modolva, the poorest country in Europe, where she has taken a large number of photos, such as those showing Gardinari’s family life. They made ends meet by farming, but circumstances were becoming more difficult year by year. The adults had to work away from home while the children and their grandparents had to hang on together. The ballet schools, sunflower farms, people and buildings captured by Asa Sjostrom’s tranquil lenses show the circumstances behind the country.  In the spring of 2018, Anna Clarén, a well-known photographer and education professional in Northern Europe, exhibited a series of works under the title When Everything Changed about difficulties in life. Behind the light and gentle images are families facing the state of affairs after separations, divorces, deaths, unemployment and illness. “Within four years of shooting, the camera has become an outlet, turning the grief of separation in human relationship into understanding, compassion, conversation and response. Only when you are true to your ownself can you be honest and brave in the face of problems.” To get a taste of North European cuisine, the restaurant and bar on the top floor of the museum is recommended. The restaurant uses fresh ingredients and alcohol from Sweden and promotes organic vegetarian dishes. The plating is so artistic that it looks like a painting. The selection of ingredients is also unique, such as the use of vegetables to make vegetarian fish roes, and the use of ice-cream for preparing dessert. Every bite tastes of the nature, leaving you with endless aftertastes. 

www.fotografiska.com