即使近幾年街頭文化佔據了高級時裝的潮流地位，仍然有一群人追求經典優雅的時裝風格，堅守低調又充滿質感的衣飾，尤其是一雙手工精巧、結實耐穿的皮鞋，最能看出個人的品味。以鞋觀人不是新鮮的觀點，好像是柯南道爾的偵探小說《福爾摩斯》中描寫福爾摩斯會從對方穿的鞋子、綁鞋帶的方式，或是鞋子的新舊磨蝕等狀況來分析對方的背景和性格。這麼說，穿上Church’s皮鞋的人，又會是個怎樣的人呢？
Church’s於1873年創立時，其家族已有差不多二百年以人手製作鞋履的經驗。其總部設於距離倫敦不遠的諾坦普頓，當地自中世紀以來一直是皮革和製鞋業發展中心。每一雙鞋都經過約250個手工步驟，製作時間更長達八星期。在這堅實的基礎下，Church’s的皮鞋不但令人聯想起優雅的英國紳士，也代表了英倫傳統的工藝與時尚。自1999年成為Prada Group旗下的品牌後，Church’s積極地加入年輕和多樣化的細節於傳統的造鞋工藝上，富現代感同時又保留英國傳統特色。今年春夏季推出的Shannon Blossom皮鞋，鞋款是經典長青的derby shoes，有別於同是紳士鞋的oxford shoes, derby shoes開放式鞋襟和一體成型的鞋舌，方便於調節鬆緊，穿起來更舒適。以愛爾蘭最長的河流Shannon而命名，鞋身以人手縫上同色的花形和圓形皮革，在簡潔和男性化的皮鞋上顯得層次和有質感，同時緊扣今季主題—— 英格蘭之夏，在英國莊嚴的教堂裡的花園、山坡和河邊，年輕人穿上Church’s奔跑、嬉笑玩樂，追求不拘一格、自由自在的生活態度。
In recent years, street fashion has seemingly taken over the high fashion scene. Although high fashion has received less attention than it used to do, there are still people who continue to embrace the classic and elegant style. The design may look understated at first glance, but the details and fabrics are the main reasons for these high fashion items to stand out. Nothing says more of a person’s style than a pair of skilfully made and durable leather shoes. In Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes, Sherlock would analyze a person’s upbringing and their personality based on their shoes, the way they tie the shoestrings, and how worn out their shoes look. So, how would he see a person wearing a pair of Church’s leather shoes?
When Church’s was founded in 1873, the Church’s family already had almost 200 years experience of shoemaking. The brand headquarter is in a town not far from London called Northampton, which has always been an industrial center for footwear and leather manufacture ever since the Middle Ages. Each pair of shoes has to undergo 250 manual processes, that basically spans over eight weeks. Looking at the dedicated process, it is not difficult to connect Church’s to the elegance of English gentlemen. The brand is as well an icon of English classic and fashion. In 1999, the brand became part of the Prada Group. Since then, Church’s has infused many younger and diversified details into their traditional shoemaking craftsmanship. They have successfully modernized the shoe design while retaining the classic English elements. Their Shannon Blossom derby shoe launched in spring/summer 2019 is a beautiful example of the brand’s latest design. In contrast to oxford shoe, derby shoe uses a construction method called open lacing. With shoelace eyelets sewn on top of the vamp, it is a lot easier to tighten or loosen the shoelace for the most comfortable wearing. Named after the longest river in Ireland, Shannon Blossom derby shoe is characterized by the circle and blossom flower motif appliqué hand-sewn onto the shoe. The decoration has not only given the simple-shaped shoe another layer of charm but also relates well to the season’s theme “Church’s English Summer”. Imagine young people in a garden of the backyard of a stately English church running around, playing in the mountains or by the river during summer — such a liberated spirit is what this pair of shoes is delivering.
Church’s Shop 2006, 2/F Elements, Kowloon, Hong Kong 2196 8452
