Leatherwork

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我們在香港以皮革工藝者身份工作了十年,主要在Fungus Workshop提供教學,或以委託形式替客人度身訂造皮革產品。在移居到英國前一年,才創立了自己的Cowrice Studio並出品我們喜歡的、線條簡單、品質高且耐用的皮革製品和手袋,主要在網上及香港的選物店Goddag Studio販售。在英國的第一年,我們主力尋找合適的皮革供應商,希望尋到好品質的本地皮革,與心儀的皮革顏色和厚薄來配合產品。幸運地,經由我們在英國的皮鞋製作老師介紹,找到一家位於英國西南部Devon的傳統皮革工廠 —— J&FJ Baker & Co Ltd。他們由1862年開始至今已是第六代經營,也是英國最後一家仍然使用橡木樹皮進行製皮工序的工廠。他們出產的皮革亦深受英國的maker喜歡,絕對是品質保證。

We used to be leather crafters back in Hong Kong; and for a decade, we taught at Fungus Workshop and created custom products through commissions. It was only a year before we moved to the UK that we established our own studio, Cowrice Studio, where we produce leather goods and handbags that we love. Our products feature clean lines, high quality, and durability. We sell them primarily online and at a select store called Goddag Studio in Hong Kong. During our first year in the UK, our main focus was finding suitable leather suppliers. We were hoping to find locally-sourced leather of good quality, with the right colors and thickness to complement our products. Lucky enough, our shoemaking teacher in the UK introduced us to  J&FJ Baker & Co Ltd, a traditional leather factory located in Devon, in the southwest of England. With a long history dating back to 1862, the factory is now managed by its sixth-generation family owners, and being the last remaining factory in the UK that still uses oak bark in the tanning process, the leather they produce is highly regarded by artisans throughout the country.

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記得那天發了一個電郵給皮革廠,告知希望親身到工場看看皮革再購買,誰料他們卻安排了一位工場主管James,帶我們遊走整個工場,並逐一介紹皮革製作過程,包括由橡木樹皮加工,收到附近農場的牛皮後存放,以鹽消毒、去毛、除脂,歷時十二個月的植鞣工序,然後再把皮革壓平、抹色染色、抹爉和油脂護理,全人手負責。可知工廠歷史悠久,走在其中,有一種置身於五六十年代英國工業重鎮的電影場景之中,像穿越了時空。在香港做皮藝工作差不多十年,期間也沒有好好地認真參觀過全個製皮過程。這次參觀工廠,經由資深工場主管詳盡解說,填滿了過去作為皮革工藝師空掉的一部分,那股興奮由底蘊升起。從那天起便確認了J&FJ Baker是我們在英國的主要皮革供應商。

I can still remember the moment we reached out to J&FJ Baker, expressing our desire to personally visit their factory to look at the leather before making a purchase. To our surprise, they arranged a comprehensive tour for us instead. James, the knowledgeable factory supervisor, showed us around the facility and explained to us every step involved in leather production. From processing of oak bark to receiving raw hides from nearby farms, followed by steps such as salting, disinfection, hair removal, degreasing, twelve months of tanning, flattening of the leather, coloring, buffing, and oil treatment — Skilled artisans performed each task with precision and expertise. As we strolled through the factory, an overwhelming sense of nostalgia enveloped us, as if we had been transported to a film set featuring a British industrial town in the 1950s or 1960s.  During my ten years in the leather industry in Hong Kong, we had never had the chance to witness the entire leather-making process firsthand. This factory visit,  guided by James’ wealth of knowledge and attention to detail, filled a void in our knowledge and ignited a profound sense of excitement within us. From that day on, we knew with utmost certainty that J&FJ Baker would become our primary leather supplier in the UK.

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Cowrice Studio以網購預訂的模式營運,跟著訂單項目來製作,同時我們也努力尋找一個更適合的工作室,經過幾個月尋覓,最後夢想成真!那是一個把後園木屋改裝為工作室的方案,木屋本來已是一個由花草樹木包圍的美好空間,面貌會隨著四季所變化,充滿生命力。我們為了空間能保持溫暖,自己安裝了一個火爐在正中心的位置,感覺像是有火神在保佑,總會在燃點木頭起火之後,雙手合十以表感謝!有火爐和植物包圍著的工作室都是maker的夢想,在那裡我們可以持續生產皮革製品,不用怕鎚仔和工具的撞擊聲騷擾到鄰居,也不用怕天氣冷不能工作,還能和居所連接,方便照顧孩子和處理家居事務,非常感恩。

At Cowrice Studio, our products are made to order. While keeping our business running, we were also searching for a better workspace; and after months of searching, our dream came true when we realized we could convert our backyard wooden cabin into a studio. The cabin was nestled amidst flowers and trees, creating a beautiful space that transformed with the changing seasons. To keep it warm, we installed a stove at its center. Whenever we lit the firewood, we would express gratitude for the blessing from the god of fire. Having a studio surrounded by warmth and nature is truly a dream come true for makers.  It allows us to continue crafting our products without worrying about disturbing our neighbors or working in cold weather. Moreover, the studio conveniently connects with our living space, allowing us to take care of our children and household matters. We cannot express enough how grateful we are for everything.

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在開展英國市場這件事上,我們傾向隨緣,記得在這個城市探索的時候,遇到很多有趣的maker,譬如木工的Geoff、陶器的Florence,發現他們的作品都寄賣在Bristol一間小店The Ottowin Shop裡,店長Ollie和Lucy是鞋匠,店舖前半部是選物店,後半部是製鞋工作室,他們的選物,全都出自本地maker之手(大多是Bristol和Somerset),他們還會不定期辦工作坊、展覽、pop up,非常有心。我們成為了made in Bristol的maker之後,也專程去潮聖,看看他們的選物,也和店長閒談起皮革工藝。不久後,獲他們邀請我們將皮革產品放在店裡寄賣,就這樣展開了讓英國人知道我們名字的第一步。後來,有一個日本品牌在英國分部,計劃尋找十位maker做一個關於衣服的特輯,策劃人在Bristol地區,也就是The Ottowin Shop的選物中,找上我們接受訪問,榮幸地成為了品牌在英特輯中的一位香港maker。感謝每個點的連繫,與每個能量間的吸引,我們一直在成為自己想成為的模樣的路上,打開每個接收的門,沒半點猶豫,這個也是我們移居英國後,對適應生命轉變的想法。

As we enter the UK local market, we choose to embrace the current and go with the flow. During our exploration of the city, we came across many interesting makers like Geoff, a skilled woodworker, and Florence, a talented potter. They sell their craftwork on consignment at a store called The Ottowin Shop in Bristol. The shop owners, Ollie and Lucy, are shoemakers. With the front of the store serving as a select shop, the duo make sure of the back of the store as a shoemaking studio. Their shop exclusively features products crafted by local makers, primarily from Bristol and Somerset. They also organize workshops, exhibitions, and pop-up events periodically. After becoming a member of Made in Bristol as a maker, we made a special visit to The Ottowin Shop and had a delightful conversation with Ollie and Lucy. Shortly thereafter, we were fortunate to be invited to consign our products in their shop, marking our first step in establishing our presence among the people in the UK. Subsequently, the UK branch of a Japanese brand planned to showcase a special clothing collection featuring ten makers, and they specifically reached out to us due to our affiliation with The Ottowin Shop. We took part in the interviews and proudly became the only one Hong Kong maker featured in the brand’s collection in the UK. We are thankful for every connection we make and the energy that surrounds us. Constantly striving to be the best version of ourselves, we embrace every opportunity that comes our way without hesitation; This is also our mindset when it comes to adapting to the changes of life as we relocate to the UK.

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