Life Rose Around His Island like a Sea

Tomihiro Kono

tomi01

初次看見的時候是怎樣的?

你有看過僧帽水母嗎?身體像個半透明的氣球,鼓鼓的,有一片像扇子般的帽緣,觸手是藍藍紫紫的很好看,樣子無害卻帶著劇毒。

這個髮型看起來就跟僧帽水母很像。它是假髮卻又更像是真的。

「我第一次看到僧帽水母的照片時,很震驚原來自己在做的是這個啊!」

Tomihiro Kono在愛媛縣南部一個小村長大,常與好友結伴佯裝成電影主角到孤島冒險,在大地上放心奔跑,是長大後仍不會忘記的觸感,日後創作的源頭,也還是大自然裡的植物、海洋生物和鳥。

What was the first sight like?

Have you ever seen a Portuguese man o’ war? Half translucent and balloon-like, with purple-blue tentacles and pneumatophores spreading like a fan; seemingly harmless, these bluebottles are, in fact, venomous.

This wig looks just like a Portuguese man o’ war – bordering the real and the fake.

“The first time I saw a picture of a Portuguese man o’ war, I couldn’t believe it: this is what I’ve been making!”

Tomihiro Kono grew up in a small village in southern Ehime, where he used to play Treasure Island with his friends. He would never forget the feeling of running without a care; every touch and every texture from memory – plants, marine life, and birds – became a source of inspiration for his practice.

「兒時的生活完全影響著我一直以來的想法與創作,大自然總是給我滿滿的靈感。」從大自然環抱間感受著一種像是空間的概念,人所需的、與人物事之間的距離,那裡會讓想像遨游。

「我小時候常去理髮店,但在十三、四歲第一次去美髮沙龍時,第一次那樣認真和髮型師一起討論想要的造型,這過程很讓我著迷。」初印象投擲下來漸漸有了重量,成了對頭髮的喜歡,對頭上的東西上心。到後來的head props與帽子製作,再後來的假髮創作,就那樣從一個光點爆發開來。

那顆光拋出了長長的線。

二十多歲時他搬到東京,在一家美髮沙龍當起髮型師學徒,在行業裡鑽了十年儲備經驗,終於2007年搬到了倫敦。來到從少年時便憧憬著的城市,了解到文化的獨特來自人們各自不同的生活方式。他把自己放進去,在環境裡碰撞,讓日常慢慢磨亮他的深度。晃眼便五年。

“My childhood has had a huge influence on my thoughts and practice – there’s no shortage of inspiration from nature,” The omnipresence of nature manifests a spatial concept, a way of contextualising one’s needs, one’s distance from another – and from things. Life rose around his island like a sea, and there he was, swimming.

“I used to go to the hair salon a lot when I was little. But my first serious discussion of style with my hairdresser only occurred when I was 13 or 14. It was fascinating,” Perhaps lending special weight to a first impression, like we all do, Kono grew passionate about hair – and what went on there. He delved right into the art of making head props and hats, and eventually wigs. All of that from a single spark.

A spark from whence a long thread elongated.

Kono moved to Tokyo in his twenties, where he apprenticed in a hair salon. Armed with a decade of experience, he realised his dream of moving to London in 2007. There, he saw how individualism breathed life into an extraordinary wealth of culture. Eager to take it all in, he wrapped himself in every interaction, every collision of minds. Five years flew by like it was yesterday.

剛到達倫敦的無名期,他每星期帶著自己製作的head props到跳蚤市集Old Spitalfields Market擺攤,直到有天,冰島後搖樂隊Sigur Rós的主音Jónsi​與伴侶Alex來到面前,說想在MV裡戴上他的帽子。後來他當上了sesson hair stylist,開展在英國的時尚、攝影、雜誌類型工作。2015年開始為Junya Watanabe的時裝秀製作head props,促成了後來的長期合作,是名字開始漸多人熟悉的時期。到了最近,他為Björk製作拍攝用的假髮,曾經說出最想合作的人正是她。

「與人合作總是最有趣,我能不斷創作,也會從互動中得到啟發。」後來又從倫敦搬到了紐約,更多元的文化相異,人人想要的東西闊度更廣,對假髮的接納更接近日常,比起如日本和香港明顯普遍很多。在不同城市轉換能量,也在每個人身上收獲著靈感。

「我一直想成為像畫家一樣可以從白畫布開始創作的人。但我發覺當髮型師有點難實現這件事,我只能在模特兒的頭髮上做創作,而那其實比較接近是一種編排而已。」在持續探險裡發現自己的不滿足,甚至其實一直維持在這個狀態。「我總是在重新創作、重新編織、重新為頭髮打上結。」從製作頭形基底開始,然後將每根頭髮編在基底上,那個階段甚至都還沒在想要怎樣的造型。「在真正開始創作前是個漫長又刻板的過程,而通常要幾個月時間才能製作出自己完全滿意的全頭假髮。」

Fresh off the boat in London, Kono brought his handmade head props to Old Spitalfields Market every week for sale. One day, he was approached by Jónsi​, frontman of the Icelandic post-rock band Sigur Rós, and his partner Alex, who wished to wear Kono’s hats in their music video. Kono later became a session hair stylist and began his career across fashion, photography, and magazine. In 2005, he started making head props for Junya Watanabe’s fashion shows, which paved way for future collaborations and gradually turned Kono into a household name. Recently, he created a wig for Björk – yet another longtime dream come true.

“It’s always the most interesting to work with people. Beyond an opportunity to create, it’s also an opportunity to be inspired through interaction,” Kono later moved from London to New York, where cultural diversity and individual wants were even more vibrant, and where wigs were more commonplace, especially compared with Japan and Hong Kong. Moving between cities was an experience of living different energies and of collecting inspiration.

“I’ve always wanted to create on a blank canvas, like painters do. Then I realised it’s very difficult to achieve as a hairstylist; I can only create with my model’s hair, which is really more of an arrangement than creation,” Experiments made clear to him where he was unsatisfied, or trapped, “I’m always starting from scratch, weaving from scratch, braiding from scratch,” From creating the base through stitching each hair to the weft, the process probably does not even involve any thought of style per se. “The preparation before the actual creation is a long and dull process; it usually takes months to create a wig that I’m totally happy with.”

他在2020年出版的作品集《PERSONAS 111》,紀錄了三年間創作的111個假髮,特意用上相同的模特兒戴上不同假髮。喜歡當中有些只是局部的假髮,會特意露出本來的頭髮,不是完全遮蓋掉,然後會明白這些有矛盾的,當中的不協調,這裡面很多面,也屬於同一個人。名字用上心理學家榮格說的「Persona(人格面具)」概念,將人格比喻為面具,在不同場合下,人會表現出不同形象,像戴上面具,而面具不只一個,人格便是所有面具的總和。

「我想假髮會是體驗另一個自我的最簡單方法吧。這就像打開你內心的另一扇門,如果從沒有過變化,它可能就永遠關著了。」

Kono’s book PERSONAS 111, published in 2020, documents 111 wigs of his creation over 3 years – some of them were showcased by the same model. I like that in some of them, you can still see the model’s actual hair. There’s no desire to conceal. One comes to realise that these inconsistencies and incoordination – these facets – all belong to the same individual. One of the Jungian archetypes, the persona, like a mask, enables the individual to interrelate with his environment by projecting a certain personality differentiated from the authentic self. Personality, as such, is the sum of all of one’s personas.

“I suppose wig-wearing is a simple means to experience one’s alter ego. It opens a door in your mind, which would have stayed shut had there been no transformation on your part.”

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