台南市中心每年都有一個大型市集，吸引大量遊客來訪也同時癱瘓了市中心交通，除了走路，那幾天想在市中心活動，最好就是靠腳踏車，有時還有意外收穫，我跟他就是因為騎單車去覓食而遇上，我們一開始的故事就離不開食。
這家米糕店就在市集旁，因為實在太多人，在台南不常見的併座也出動了，我剛好跟這穿花襯衫的男生坐在一個角落，出於好奇或減低尷尬氣氛，我先開口： 「你也是逛市集的嗎？」他眼睛一亮，好像也同樣充滿好奇： 「本來想進去看看，但人太多了，擠不進去。」這店有一位員工是我的朋友，吃著吃著朋友送來我一個她做的布甸，我又怕尷尬，問他要不要吃，他更為尷尬： 「不用不用，我其實是甜點師。」這樣我們交換了彼此的Instagram，我說好會去吃他做的甜點，他是胡里歐，工作室名叫胡作室。
我打開Instagram細讀，胡作室原來是私廚，究竟甚麼是「私廚」？從速食文化，到街頭夜市文化，再到網紅打卡的飲食文化，「私廚」會不會是當下流行的飲食新體驗？還是因為年紀增長，我對於吃也有所感悟？香港的話，私房菜就是獨家、只有這位廚師才能煮出的佳餚，沒有甚麼要求的話，口味菜式全由私廚處理，食材大多來自小農、時令有機，加上精緻及創意⋯⋯其實我沒法解釋「私廚」太多，畢竟我沒有吃過很多私房菜，甚至沒有吃過太多高級料理。但向來對未知充滿好奇心的我，終於相約朋友一同去品嚐。
「對我來說，『私廚』是建立於料理人既有的料理基礎認知上，他能妥善運用手邊食材、調味料，完成獨一無二的心意滋味。這裡不論好吃與否，那是個人感受，所以你家裡負責做菜的人，就是你的私廚，請好好珍惜。」胡里歐輕描淡寫便解釋了他心中對「私廚」的定義，彷彿時刻都提醒自己，心意，就是私廚，那些來自家裡熟悉的香味也是心意的表達。
「心意」除了從私廚個人出發，還可從預約者的眉角有所感悟： 「從客人私訊的文字中感覺預約者的個性特質，再加上季節食材，來設想我能提供甚麼可以讓他們心情愉悅、符合氣氛的呢？還有自己也想吃的料理！基本上就是希望『你快樂，所以我快樂』的心情。」是呢！ 為客人煮東西，由研發到客人來臨，可能有幾天私廚也一直在吃相同食材的料理，「自己也想吃的」確實非常重要。
有些人注定執著於吃甚麼，但絕對不是以食材的價格來決定，曾有一位在美國經營餐廳的朋友說過，「用餐快樂的體驗」是最好的行銷策略，因為把吃東西跟快樂連在一起，珍貴的時光化成美好的回憶。所謂「成功」有千百種定義，但快樂就只有一種 —— 自己處理食材時的愉悅，以及大家的笑容，成為幸福感的用餐經驗。
一頓私廚，已經為我吃甚麼下了定義，當我看著胡里歐處理因為跟我聊天而不小心烤焦了蔬菜時，我的屏息靜氣，跟他俐落地處理食材，重新烤烘的對比，我就知道只要在料理、或是正在準備料理，都能讓他快樂，這就是私廚的魔法！從此選擇吃甚麼好像更有意義。
Every year, a large-scale bazaar takes place in the city center of Tainan. While the event attracts a huge amount of tourists that flock into the city, it also paralyzes the area’s roads and streets. Besides walking, the best way to move around the city center during the bazaar is to ride bicycles; and if you’re lucky, you might come across something pleasantly unexpected during the ride. My encounter with him happened to occur on one of those rides when we were both out biking around searching for food.
The migao (rice cake) shop is located right next to the bazaar. On the day I visited it was completely packed, and even though communal seating was a rare thing in Tainan, I was seated right next to him, the man wearing a floral print shirt, at the same table, tucked away in the corner. Either out of genuine curiosity or wanting to reduce the awkwardness, I started talking to him. “Are you here for the bazaar?” His eyes lit up as if he was also curious. “I wanted to, but there were so many people. I couldn’t squeeze in.” At some point, a waiter, who is also a friend of mine, brought over a homemade pudding. The awkwardness struck again, so I asked if he wanted the pudding. He looked embarrassed and said, “No thanks. I’m actually a pastry chef.” That was how our story began. We followed each other on Instagram and made a promise that I would go visit him and try his pastries. His name is Julio Chuang and his studio is called Julio Studio.
Scrolling through Julio’s Instagram, I learnt that he runs a private kitchen. But what exactly is a private kitchen? With so many different food cultures like fast food, night market cuisine, and food influencers coming into view, I wondered if private kitchens are yet another up-and-coming trend in the food world. Based on my understanding and insights regarding food, the private kitchens in Hong Kong are where chefs serve their exclusive, signature delicacies; and if the customers have no specific dietary requirement, the chefs would prepare the food using ingredients that are often organic and come from small farms. The menus in private kitchens are typically exquisite and creative. Though honestly, I don’t have much experience with private kitchens and high-end cuisine and therefore can’t elaborate more on the topic, as someone with a curious soul, I was ready to dive into the world of the unknown to find out more.
“For me, a private chef is a chef who has an understanding of cooking and the ability to use the ingredients and seasonings at hand to properly and whole-heartedly create dishes that are unique. It doesn’t matter whether the food tastes good or not; because after all, it is all about personal preference. In a way, the person who cooks for you at home is your private chef. You should always cherish it.” Julio’s definition of a private chef came as a reminder that it’s the thought that counts. What lies behind those familiar smells of food and cooking at home is the thoughtful well wishes of your own private chef.
While thoughtfulness can be an intrinsic value of the chefs, communicating with the customers can also inspire the chef to create something thoughtful and meaningful. “From the text exchange at the point of reservation, I can usually get a sense of the customers’ personality. Also based on the seasonal ingredients available, I would start to brainstorm the menu. What can I cook to make them feel happy and how can I create the best atmosphere for the setting? Of course, I also take inspiration from dishes that I want to eat! Basically, I cook with the hope of ‘you are happy, so I am happy.’” That’s right! From brainstorming the menu to the day of actually setting food on the table, the chef may be experimenting with and tasting the same food every day during the time in between. It is therefore important that the chefs take inspiration from dishes they want to eat.
Some people are obsessed with what to eat though their obsession is seldom related to the price of the ingredients. A friend who runs a restaurant in the United States once said, “Offering the customers a joyful dining experience is the best marketing strategy that one could do. Connecting dining with happiness. Turning precious time into beautiful memories. There are hundreds and thousands of ways to find success in the restaurant business, but there is only one way to create happiness — it is to cook and create a happy dining experience that puts a smile on everyone’s face.
My private chef, Julio, has tailored a menu for me. As he cooked, we chatted and a burnt smell came from the oven. Julio swiftly took out the burnt vegetables, prepared a new plate of ingredients, popped it in the oven, and started baking once again. I watched every step in silence, and at one point, I came to the realization that cooking is what makes Julio happy. A private kitchen is where the magic lies. From that moment on, choosing what to eat has become a more mindful process.
