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The Free Weavers

Freeweaver Studio

九月末,是倫敦時裝周,也是刻意地同時提出改革方案的Sustainable Fashion Week,我懷著好奇的心態走到位於London Bridge和Fashion and Textile Museum附近的 Freeweaver Studio,一步進就看見創辦人Erna Janine,和一位靜靜地在織布的男生,原來他也叫Toby,更是一位建築師:「我覺得過程十分療癒,我織了這一塊,打算把它掛起來,像一件藝術品般展示。」

As London Fashion Week coincides with Sustainable Fashion Week at the end of September, I found myself drawn to Freeweaver Studio, nestled near London Bridge and the Fashion and Textile Museum. Upon entering, I was greeted by founder Erna Janine and a young man quietly weaving—his name is Toby too, and he’s an architect. “I find this process incredibly therapeutic. I plan to display this piece on the wall as a work of art.”

Janine 不時公開招募實習生,邀請他們幫忙日常的教班工作,同時提供空間和材料給他們鑽研自己的創作。現時共有8位實習生,Toby是其中之一, 當中大概有60%來自設計和藝術學院,40% 來自不同界別,例如是從歷史角度看紡織的人類學家。

這𥚃常辦不同的工作坊,學生來自本地和外地,對於以前從未接觸過任何紡織製作的人來說,過程簡單且很邏輯化,「我們就在一起雕琢整個空間,並在這空間內相互放大。」Janine 説。

Janine occasionally opens her doors to interns, inviting them to assist with workshops while providing them space and materials to explore their creativity. Currently, there are eight interns, including Toby. About 60% hail from design and art schools, while 40% come from diverse backgrounds, including anthropology with a focus on the history of textiles.

The studio regularly hosts various workshops, attracting both locals and travellers. For many participants who have never engaged in textile creation before, the process is straightforward and logical. “We craft the space together, amplifying each other’s creativity,” Janine explained.

「小時候,當同學們的祖父母大都穿著便服在城市工作,我的兩位祖母,一位是每天唱著山歌照顧孩童的牧羊人,另一位是荷蘭僅餘還堅持穿著傳統服飾的人,大帽子、充滿象徵意義的圖案、純金的細節,都是全人手造的,損壞了便親手修補或找打金匠幫忙。」

Janine 出生於Apeldoorn —— 幾個世紀以來,是皇室的居住地,也是Orange-Nassau家族300年來的家園。還有收生年齡由6歲起的The Fashion School,教授創新時尚、設計和縫紉,推動時尚帶來個性和健康的態度。

針黹手藝從來都是荷蘭教育的一部分,小孩由幼稚園階段,在紙鞋盒上織布開始,6歲就能刺繡自己的名字,10歲學裁剪、縫紉和編織等等,每個人都會釘鈕、補窿和編織襪子。

相反走近大城市,7年前 Janine 從冰島的織布工房來到倫敦,發現人們和這些手藝都很疏離,人們對紡織工藝一無所知,令她很費解,於是她創辦了 Freeweaver Studio,來填補現代人和傳統手藝之間的縫隙,讓他們認識和享受當中的技術和歷史,當走進博物館或看展覽時,也能分辨,「噢!這些是羊毛,這些是棉布⋯⋯」,為紡織和時尚帶來新的角度,讓人們洞悉什麼是更好的選擇。

「現在織物被視為即棄的東西,我卻認為織物是一種未來的人類元素,是人類的方式——不用機器,只要我們選擇這樣做,就是對人性的回響。自古以來,紡織就是這樣塑造世界,成為今日的全球第二大工業。」

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Reflecting on her childhood, Janine recalled, “While my peers’ grandparents wore casual city attire, my two grandmothers were steeped in tradition. One was a shepherdess who sang folk songs while caring for children, and the other was a Dutch woman who proudly donned traditional garments adorned with meaningful patterns and intricate gold details. Each piece was handmade, repaired by hand when damaged, or mended by a goldsmith.”

Janine was born in Apeldoorn, a city historically linked to the royal family and home to the Orange-Nassau dynasty for over 300 years. The city also houses The Fashion School, which teaches innovative fashion, design, and sewing to children as young as six, instilling a sense of individuality and well-being through fashion.

In the Netherlands, textile crafts have long been a part of education. Children learn to weave on simple shoebox looms in kindergarten, embroider their names by age six, and by ten, start cutting, sewing, and knitting.

In contrast, upon moving to London from a weaving workshop in Iceland seven years ago, Janine was struck by the disconnect many people had with these traditional skills. This realization fueled her desire to bridge the gap between modern society and age-old craftsmanship, helping people appreciate the techniques and history behind textiles. She hopes that when they visit museums or exhibitions, they can discern the material. “Oh! This is wool, and this is cotton,” offering new perspectives on textiles and fashion.

“Today, textiles are often viewed as disposable,” Janine remarked. “But I believe they represent a vital human element for the future. When we choose to create in a human way not by machines, it’s an echo of humanity. Historically, textiles have shaped the world, becoming the second largest industry in the world.”

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一塊沒完沒了的布是由不同人隨意加入、天馬行空地共同創作的,客人可以米作單位地購買。

The studio’s unique approach allows guests to purchase fabric by the meter, creating a collaborative tapestry that embodies diverse contributions and imaginative visions.

其實紡織可以很簡單,只要我們放慢下來,一踏上一踏落,不需要電力,看著布料由一條紗線開始在你面前變大,最後看到自己製作的成果,就是這麼簡單的方式、一種重要的方式前進,為不同的價值觀創造一些東西;這是只看著平板電腦、連走到店舖試穿也不用的方式,不能取替的溫度。

Textile creation can be simple; it only requires us to slow down. Watching fabric grow from a single thread into a tangible creation is a vital process—a tangible experience that technology cannot replicate.

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Freeweaver的紗線都是通過YODOMO取自不同工廠的餘料,最近有些是來自Nike。

YOMDOMO可算是一個非牟利組織,作為工廠和設計師之間的橋梁,令剩餘的材料得以被發揮創意,而不致於被掉進堆填區。

Janine 喜歡到訪保留著傳統布藝的地方,如印度、日本等地;她曾花上3個月和印度東部的部落居民一起住在土屋,跟著他們從到森林採集樹上的蠶蛹開始,煮泡後織成絲紗,織布後製作成衣服,整個過程都沒有觸碰過任何機器,是全天然,而且所有成本都全歸部落所有。

可惜是他們的後代都未必願意繼續這些傳統手藝 ,Janine 希望可以幫忙傳承,把這些工藝帶到倫敦,或在未來有機會帶城市的學生到訪當地,讓大家互相學習。

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Freeweaver’s yarn is sourced from various factories, including remnants from Nike, through Yodomo, a nonprofit organization that bridges the gap between manufacturers and designers, ensuring leftover materials are creatively repurposed rather than discarded.

Janine is passionate about visiting places that honor traditional fabric arts, such as India and Japan. She spent three months living with tribal communities in eastern India, learning to gather silkworm cocoons from trees and weave them into fabric—all without machinery. This natural process ensured that all costs benefited the community.

Sadly, the younger generations often hesitate to continue these traditional crafts. Janine hopes to help preserve these skills by bringing them to London, potentially organizing visits for urban students to foster mutual learning and collaboration.

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說到難忘的作品,Janine想起她把印度國父甘地的後人帶到London Fashion Week,引領一群參加者圍圈,並用一周時間,以甘地倡導、象徵自給自足和自由的Charkha紡織技巧,由紗線到織成Khadi棉布,最後製成一件衣服。

Among her memorable projects, Janine fondly recalls bringing descendants of Mahatma Gandhi to London Fashion Week. She led participants sitting in a circle through a week-long Charkha weaving process, creating Khadi cotton clothing symbolizing Gandhi’s ideals of self-sufficiency and freedom.

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最近她們挑戰度身訂製外套,客人可以體驗由一條紗開始,親手編織布料,然後把布料交給裁縫製作只屬自己的外套,最後便會以郵寄方式寄回給他們。

「紡織品是通行世界的連接器,每個人都有不同的故事。」Janine 説。

Recently, she has taken on the challenge of offering bespoke clothes-making experiences, allowing customers to weave their own textiles, that are then passed to the tailor to make into a personalized coat, sent directly to them.

“Textiles is a universal connector,” Janine concluded. “Everyone has a unique story.”

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