The Language of Flowers

Lora Avedian

Photo of Lora Avedian Studio by Carmel King

在工作桌前的大軟木板上,釘上了工作清單、樣板、靈感和一系列的針黹繪圖,Lora Avedian 的工作室位於倫敦西南部市郊家中的一個房間裡,在這寧靜的角落,從工作間的窗子向外望,是一片綠色的植物,而後花園的新工作室也正在搭建中。

「我是一個收集狂,任何吸引了我眼睛的東西,我都會收集起來,釘到我的軟木板上,或貼進我的寫生簿裡。我的靈感通常來自歷史物件,不論從博物館或畫廊中看過的,還是我從市集中收藏下來的。」Lora Avedian解説著。

Setting up a large cork board in front of the desk, it is pinned with lists of things to do, samples, and inspiration and a set of draws with all threads in it. Lora Avedian’s studio is currently in the spare room of her flat, in a small suburb of South West London. That is in a very quiet corner with lots of green plants outside the work room window to look at. She and her husband are in the process of getting a studio in the back garden soon.

“I am a keen collector of things, anything that catches my eye, I will keep and pin to my cork board or put in a sketchbook. My inspiration is often from historical objects, either from pieces I have seen in a museum or gallery or objects I have collected from markets.” Lora Avedian explained.

寫生簿裡從不列顛博物館裡拍下來的照片、欣賞的藝術家作品——例如是Celia Pym的金色斗篷、一些明信片或博物館檔案中的圖像,Lora會把看來和諧的拼湊起來,成為她創作的靈感,「很多時候,我的工作就是由這些一件或多件碎片混合而成的。」她說。

The images of sketchbook pages, some are photographs taken at the British museum, some are images of other artists’ work like Celia Pym’s beautiful gold cape, and some are postcards or images from museum archives. Lora often put together these sorts of collections of imagery that she feels work in harmony together and this can inspire her work. “Often my work is fragments of one or many of these things mixed together.” she said.

自曼徹斯特城市大學(現為曼徹斯特藝術學院)的刺繡學士課程畢業後,Lora懷著來自Shona Heath和Tim Walkers超現實世界的啟發,和時裝品牌的工作經驗,回到倫敦,為雜誌及廣告創作場景佈置和道具造型。7年後,她開始厭倦了精心製作壽命只有鏡頭前一瞬間的道具,她意識到自己其實是想做一些持久的東西,希望人們可以享用很長的時間。 於是她決定報讀早已想了很久的Mixed Media Textiles(混合媒體紡織品)碩士課程,在皇家藝術學院的日子裡,她有足夠的時間創作和發展出自己的設計個性。

After graduating from a BA in a course called Embroidery at Manchester Metropolitan University which is now Manchester School of Art, Lora was really inspired by Shona Heath and Tim Walker’s worlds that they created, so when she moved back to London after doing work experience for fashion brands, she worked for magazines and advertisements as an set designer and prop stylist for about 7 years. After that, she eventually decided to apply for the Mixed Media Textiles MA because she was getting tired of making beautiful props to go in front of the camera that would just be thrown away at the end of the day. She realised she just wanted to be making things that would last and people would enjoy for a long time. The MA gave her the time to do that and develop her identity as a designer.

「當我還是一個場景設計師和道具製作者時,我逐漸對為拍攝和活動項目紙花製作產生興趣,慢慢地越來越多人找我造花,我喜歡製作它們,看花越多,我就越感應到它們的啟發性。」就是這樣,Lora在她的碩士課程中,專注於將紙花轉化為織物,並探索更廣闊的領域,注入她對亞美尼亞傳統遺產的研究,轉化為針線,來創作花藝,成為她的作品中最令人們興奮的部分。

“When I worked as a set designer and prop maker I became interested in making paper flowers as props for photoshoots and events, and it became something people would ask me to do a lot. I loved making them and the more I looked at flowers the more I realised how inspiring they are.” Lora was going to focus on translating the paper flowers into textiles and explore other areas in her MA. She did a lot of research into Armenian heritage and translating them into stitch, as well as creating some floral pieces which ended up being the part of her work people were most excited about.

Lora Avedian Embroidered Beret photo by Ellie Smith

Photography by Ellie Smith

「我在皇家藝術學院的作品很多是關於亞美尼亞傳統遺產的探索,因為我無法到亞美尼亞,也從未去過,所以我花了很多時間去圖書館查閱檔案和作視覺研究。古代亞美尼亞的手工藝集合了各種刺繡品和織物,代表了我的研究。我看了很多前蘇聯導演謝爾蓋·帕拉亞諾夫(Sergei Parajanov)有關亞美尼亞的電影——《石榴的顏色》;而在Suzie Howell的鏡頭下,便出色地呈現了作品的敍述和我的研究。」

“My work at the Royal College of Art was a lot about exploring my Armenian heritage, and because I was not able to go to Armenian and had never been there, I spent a lot of time going into archives, libraries, and doing visual research of ancient Armenian artifacts which came together into various embroidered objects and textiles which represented my research. I looked a lot at the Soviet Armenian film, The Colour of Pomegranates by Sergei Parajanov. The pieces I made that worked on the body I had photographed by Suzie Howell who did an amazing job at capturing the narrative of the pieces and my research.”

Lora Avedian Machine embroidery work in progress

「我會嘗試混合不同的技巧,因為我發現我常從中得到最有趣的效果!我很喜歡手工打褶和導線針法,但同時我也會用我的手動刺繡機(『愛爾蘭』工業刺繡機)來創作很多作品,我的是新的版本,但傳統上它是一台非常古老的工業機器,沒有腳踏,所以可以自由地縫製針步。」

“I try to use a combination of different techniques, because I find that is where I get the most interesting outcome. I do love pleating and couching, but I also do a lot of work on my freehand embroidery machine called an ‘Irish’ industrial embroidery machine, I have a new version, but it is traditionally a very old industrial machine where there is no foot on it so you can draw freely with stitch.”

「我會到處尋找賣剩的、二手的或古著的材料和配飾來用,因為我覺得它們遠比全新的還有趣得多,而且對地球也會好一點。我會用裁剪剩下來的布來造花瓣,不過現在已很難找到古舊而堅韌的機用繡花線,所以我會結合二手物料和新的繡花線來平衡新與舊的運用。假使我真的要買新的材料,我會嘗試尋找來源透明的供應商,留意一下運送的距離和工厰的背景。」

“I try to use deadstock, second hand or vintage materials and haberdashery wherever I can, because I think it’s far more interesting than buying new as well as being better for the planet. For my flower petals I try to use offcuts of fabrics where I can, and because it’s hard to find strong machine embroidery threads that are vintage. To balance between the old and the new, I combine my second-hand materials with new threads to embroider on my machine. If I do buy new materials, I have been trying to find suppliers who are transparent about where their material comes from, how far it has travelled and the factory it has been made in.”

Lora Avedian Workshop participants work

「班上的一些參與者告訴我,我的手工繡花工作坊對他們有多放鬆,這真的好。 我認為這些重複進行小動作的過程,對人是很好的。當掌握了技巧,這種重複就可以讓思緒進入某種順著流動的狀態。能用雙手來造點東西,即使只是很小的樣本,稱不上有什麼用途,也會令人感到非常滿足。」

對於整天呆在電腦前或拿著手機工作,這種觸感的活動確是很放鬆的,Lora覺得「慢針黹」的概念是一種關於正念的新趨勢,她希望這不只是一種潮流,而是會繼續留存,因為它真的能給個人帶來了很多好處,而且也能把人們聚在一起,凝聚更廣闊的社區。

「隨著人們越來越意識到我們正面臨氣候危機,而紡織品在當中正扮演著很重要的角色。我覺得大家開始更了解到物料的價值,我希望將來我們對衣服的來源會有更多的關注,還有如何運用刺繡等手工藝來修補和修復衣物。如果可以在學校層面上學習更多這些技能,一定會很有幫助,好讓我們的下一代了解周遭的事物是怎樣製造出來,也許會更尊重它們。」

這是Lora的願景,也是我的願望。

“Some of the participants of my classes told me how relaxing my hand embroidery workshops have been for them, which is really good to hear. I think it’s the process of doing small, repeated actions that can be so good for you. That repetition can enable your mind to wonder or get you into a sort of ‘flow’ once you have the hang of the technique. It’s also extremely satisfying to make things with your hands, even if it is just a small sample which doesn’t function as anything.”

Working on a tactile thing with your hands is such a relief to working on a computer or holding your phone all the time. Lora thinks the concept of “slow stitch” is really related to the new trend of mindfulness, and she hopes that is not just a trend, but is something that is here to stay because it has a lot of benefits for people as individuals but also for our broader communities by bringing people together.

“I think as people are becoming more aware of the climate crisis we are facing, and how textiles have a big role to play in that. I think people are beginning to understand the value of materials more. I hope that in the future we will have more of an understanding about where our clothes come from, and how we can use hand crafts like embroidery to mend and revive our clothing. I think it would help if we learnt more of these skills at the school level, which could help future generations of people understand how the things around them are made and perhaps respect them more.”

This is Lora’s vision, and also my wish.

Lora Avedian Studio space by Carmel King

Photography by by Carmel King

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