Beely Daily_01

The Pleasance Making

Beely Daily

兩個人並排而坐,一左一右縫著手袖或其他部分時,突然想起以前看過一段介紹印度Jamdani織布工藝的影片 —— 兩個人並排坐在織布機前慢慢做,片中英語旁白說one master(一位大師)怎樣怎樣,another master(另一位大師)又會怎樣怎樣,介紹這些 masters怎樣認真地創作/製作。

二人就開始以英語説著無聊話,例如:

「這位大師很餓。」

「這位大師在想他什麼時候可以吃午餐。」

「這位大師在想另一位大師可否幫他拿杯水。」

「This master真係好煩!」

The two of us were sitting side by side, either sewing the sleeves on or fixing this and that, and the video about Jamdani weaving from India suddenly came into my mind — Two people sitting side by side in front of the loom, weaving slowly. When the narrator describes the duo, “One master” and “Another master” are used.

And the silly conversation between the two of us began:

“This master is very hungry.”

“This master wonders when he can have lunch.”

“This master wonders if another master can get her some water.”

“This master is so annoying!”

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造好了就按照原版十八世紀穿著English Smock (英式打褶) 伯伯的姿勢,記錄廿一世紀的甜美版本。(photo by Beely Daily)

B:Beely Daily 
T:Toby Crispy

B:總之就用this master來代替所有『我』和『你』,其實都是些inside joke,其他人未必會明的笑點,不過我們就玩了整段造衫的日子。

大部分時間我們都沒有分工,可以一起做的工序,我們都一起玩,所以就算是看似比較「悶」的工作,兩個人一起做,説説笑,比賽鬥快,就不會悶。有次朋友說搭長途車很悶,但我們坐在車上都會傾偈,所以都不覺悶,應該是差不多的道理。

B: All in all, we used “this master” instead of “I” and “you”. It is an inside joke; not everyone can get it. But we had fun with it throughout the entire clothes-making journey.

There wasn’t really a division of labor. As long as the tasks can be done by two people, we’d do it together. So even with a seemingly boring job, we could still have fun as we can work and joke together, and even compete against each other. A friend once said that long-haul bus rides are so boring. But for us, we can chat and not feel bored. I guess it’s similar to how we work.

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Put on that 21st century version of an English smock and pose for a picture like the old man from the 18th century.

T:造這件英式smock二人加起來要超過100小時,當中大部分的時間,都花在車線做歪了、做得不好或做錯了,經歷著無數次拆掉又重做,值得嗎?

B:重做就是改正和學習怎樣做好一點,所以一定是值得的。製作這件smock的原理很簡單,只看書或網上資料都能理解,但要感受到每個細節是怎麼一回事、什麼形狀、什麼觸覺,真的要落手試呢!如果落手試但求其做,那只看書就好了!所以,要麼就花足時間盡力做,要麼就不要做,不要一半半,一半半就最浪費時間、最不值得!

T: It took you more than 100 hours to make this English smock, and most of the time was spent fixing and re-doing the wrong, crooked, or not-so-good-looking stitches. Is it worth it?

B: It’s definitely worth it because re-doing means correcting and improving. Creating a smock is easy. You just need to read some books or study some online materials then you can do it. But it takes some real hands-on work to truly understand every detail, shape, and texture. If you simply want to be hands-on but not really putting your heart into it, just reading a book will do! Either spend time doing your best, or don’t do it at all. Don’t be half serious because it’s not worth it and a complete waste of time!

T:摺褶細節於現在而言純屬美觀,在物資有限而且橡筋還未出現的中世紀,smocking更充當著彈性的功能,就是盡量把整塊布保留,以摺褶細節放長縮短,一件衫可以造給兒女從小穿到大,再傳給弟妹,也將惜物概念轉化成裝飾藝術。

B:很實際地去想,有好多細節,機器只是做得快,而不一定做得比手造好。比如上粒鈕,手縫可以收好線尾在鈕底,美觀之餘又實淨好多;機上的鈕總是有線尾走出來,一剪就很易鬆。「實淨」的價值一定存在著,問題是有沒有人留意和欣賞,去評價這「實淨」呢?

手造的細節,甚至是整件衫都手造,當中意義應該跟時間有很大關係吧!不為效率,選擇慢慢做好,手作者所花的時間,最後真的能令衣服穿很長的時間,令穿者可以好好珍惜。

講起才發覺最近都沒有這樣玩,大概要等造第二件時才會再玩,我們一開始就打算做一人一件,一長一短的。

Beely Daily_07

T: Nowadays, smocking serves only an aesthetic purpose; but back in the Middle Ages when resources were limited and elastics were not yet invented, it offered natural stretchability to fabrics. Smocking involves the process of gathering fabric into pleats to create stretchability while keeping the entire piece of fabric intact. A garment crafted with pleating can be worn by one from childhood to adulthood and even passed on to the next generation. In a way, smocking is a manifestation of a sustainable lifestyle and at the same time, a form of decorative art.

B: Honestly speaking, machines are more efficient; but in terms of details, they might not be that good compared to manual production. Take the example of sewing on a button. With hand-sewing, we can hide the thread tail nicely underneath the button; but with machine-sewing, the tail is always visible and the button loosens up quite easily. It definitely matters to people whether a button can stay firm and in place; but the problem is, does anyone care enough to look into the issue and comment?

Handcrafting the detailed parts, or even hand making a piece of garment, has a lot to do with time! Take your time and forget about efficiency. The time you spend on hand sewing a garment means that the piece can be worn over a long period of time and will be treasured by the one who wears it.

Speaking of, we haven’t had fun like that for a while. Probably will have to wait until the second project starts. We planned to create one for each, a long one and a short one.

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B:手造的東西,可是很個人的創作或情感表達,別人會否欣賞就成了更個人和主觀的事。比如有些人會喜歡手造的原始感覺、不規矩,稍稍的不整齊也是獨一無二。這些很個人的東西,如果能帶給自己甚至是別人開心的感覺,那也是一種意義和獨有價值吧!

一開始就是覺得好玩所以才做,但做完就覺得很多事情真的simple but not easy(簡單卻又不容易),要繼續學習欣賞不同simple中蘊含著的not easy。

T:Simple but not easy的工序是説不完的話題,這種令人埋頭苦幹的著迷,似乎是愛造衣的人才會有的共鳴。

B: Handcrafting is a very personal way of creating and expressing emotions. It’s even more personal and subjective when it comes to how others perceive the work. For example, there are people who like the rawness and irregularity of handcrafting. There is a uniqueness that comes with it. If such personal items can bring happiness to one’s self and the others, it’s certainly meaningful and special.

We started because it seemed fun, but then we realized there are so many things that are simple but not easy. We will keep learning how to appreciate the difficulties that come with simple tasks.

T: There is so much to talk about when it comes to simple but not easy, and it’s such an obsession. This is something that only those who love clothes-making will understand.

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