在堆著一疊又一疊牛仔褲的工作桌上，Elton熟手地拆著褲袋上的鈕扣，說起他和牛仔褲的故事。「少年時喜歡追逐潮流，嘗試改造自己的牛仔褲，做破爛、潑墨、拼貼，穿上後自我感覺特別地良好。」Elton笑說，在此之前他沒穿過牛仔褲，這大概是他與牛仔褲的緣起。後來成立了牛仔品牌Full House Denim & Workshop十多年，他由最初的度身訂造、改製、加工，到生產整個牛仔系列，對於牛仔褲了解，就如正在拆鈕扣般純熟。Elton由自己製作的牛仔褲，說到日本品牌45R今季的「牛仔祭」，由製造到穿著、配搭的日常，看似平凡的牛仔褲，背後記載著職人的用心、穿者的故事。即使平凡，也可以是經歷時日流逝後，仍留在衣櫥中、讓人珍惜的衣物。
Elton was skillfully removing the buttons on the pockets of the stacks of jeans on his work desk as he shared his stories with denim. “When I was young, I liked to be on-trend. I would customize my jeans by distressing them, splattering paint on them, and adding patches. Wearing them made me feel really cool,” Elton laughed, explaining that before this, he had never even worn jeans. This was the start of his connection with denim. Years later, he founded the denim brand Full House Denim & Workshop, from where he progressed from custom tailoring, alterations, and processing, to eventually producing an entire line of jeans. His mastery of denim is evident as he deftly removes the pocket buttons. Elton went on to discuss the Japanese brand 45R and their recent “Denim Festival.” From the manufacturing process to how people wear and style the jeans in daily life, even the most ordinary pair of jeans can hold the craftsmanship of the artisans and the stories of the wearers. Though simple, these well-loved jeans that remain in our closets are treasures that have withstood the test of time.
“As a denim enthusiast, I have long admired 45R for their indigo dyeing techniques. Besides their own signature shades of blue, I am particularly impressed by their indigo t-shirt series that showcases varied blue tones. It’s something really innovative that I haven’t seen elsewhere.” As 45R’s president Takahashi Shinji explained, the essence of Japanese denim lies in the indigo dyeing process, which has become core to the brand’s jean-making. The artisans use a rope dyeing technique, repeatedly dipping the yarn into the dye and oxidizing it to achieve the varied indigo tones. Through years of wear, the jeans take on the unique blue tones of the wearer.
Building on the brand’s emphasis on its roots, this season 45R re-examined their materials, dyeing techniques, and cuttings, presenting the “Denim Festival” collection infused with the vibrant energy of the Japanese festivities. The five styles: Charlotte 5, Crossover,Sorahikohime, Crosby 5, and New Momohime, capture the joyful spirit of “Wasshoi, Wassshoi” (a chant often heard during Japanese festivals).
When Elton looks at jeans, it is natural for him to first study the hems to closely examine the lining and details that aren’t usually visible. “From the manufacturer’s perspective, the most important thing has to be the fabric, because it’s impossible to make a pair of jeans that look great but can’t be worn or falls apart after washing it a couple times.” He shared, “I’m used to first looking at the lining of the hem, checking if there’s a red line, which would indicate the denim was woven on an old-style shuttle loom. That takes more time to manufacture and uses more fabric, so the price is usually higher.”
“Today I’m wearing 45R’s new Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime straight-leg jeans. I chose this pair because I love raw denim, and the style goes well with what I usually wear.” The design blends 45R’s classic Sorahiko and Hikohime fits, resulting in a sharp, streamlined look with an elevated waistline that subtly accentuates the figure. “This is a heavier-weight style, but it feels incredibly breathable and soft when you put it on. Even in the noon sunlight during our outdoor shoot, I didn’t feel hot at all.” The fabric is 45R’s signature 6.5-ounce Futatabi 6.5 denim, made from tough yet flexible Zimba cotton, with a dry handfeel that’s perfect for jeans.
The five-star logo on the back patch of the Futatabi 6.5 Sorahikohime denotes them as 45R’s most classic and high-quality jeans, mirroring the top-tier distinction of a five-star hotel.
“I don’t believe that using any particular fabric or cut makes a pair of jeans ‘good.’ A good pair of jeans comes down to whether it meets the needs and requirements of the person wearing them. For example, if you like soft, stretchy jeans but someone gives you a heavy, stiff pair, you’ll find them too thick and uncomfortable to wear. So you have to be very clear about your own preferences to find a ‘good’ pair of jeans for yourself.” Using himself as an example, Elton said that he has grown to prefer more relaxed fit jeans in recent years. The Crosby 5 style with its streamlined, minimalist cutting is perfect for me. “I’m more sensitive to heat these days, so comfort has become an even higher priority.”
Complementing 45R’s Ivy League-inspired 2024 spring/summer collection, the Crosby 5 jeans are inspired by New York’s historic Crosby Street. This style reimagines the American classic five-pocket jean, blending it with elements of casual trousers to create a slimmer, softer washed style that is more suitable for summer wear.
“Beyond just the fabric, the smaller details like buttons and zippers are equally important, as they reflect the manufacturer’s thoughtfulness and craftsmanship. In this regard, Japanese denim brands excel, as they are exceptionally meticulous about every step of the production process—from the cotton growing, to the dyeing, stitching, and even the thread colors and metal hardware used. For 45, they utilize threads of varying thicknesses and colors across key areas like the pockets, fly, shoulders, and waistband to achieve a ‘perfect’ final result. I find that Japanese jeans often have a sense of being ‘restored’ to their original denim essence and heritage.”
“Personally, I’m quite interested in the new Crossover style. The overlapping waistband design is very unique, with the buttons extending almost to the pocket area, creating an asymmetric, three-dimensional effect that I haven’t seen elsewhere. The style also features details like uneven, frayed hems which I find quite special. As for the Charlotte 5 style, it uses an embroidered logo patch instead of the typical leather, which is a pleasant design choice.”
45R推出新版型牛仔褲「CROSSOVER」，選用輕巧透薄的MUGI牛仔布，使成品蓬鬆柔軟。
45R introduced the new Crossover style that features lightweight, thin MUGI denim fabric, giving the final product a soft and fluffy feel.
Named after the renowned French architect and designer Charlotte Perriand, the women’s jeans Charlotte 5 have a relaxed, more feminine cut with a straight leg and higher waist, creating a beautiful and flattering silhouette. The back patch features a printed crescent moon design to represent the collection’s women’s styling.
Beyond the Charlotte 5, 45R has also introduced the New Momohime style, which is likewise inspired by feminine influences. Taking Marilyn Monroe as its muse, the New Momohime features a wider cut through the hips, giving it an updated palazzo pant silhouette with a more overtly feminine shape. The design also references vintage European workers’ jeans, with a side zipper closure and a single back pocket.
A key highlight of the Denim Chapter II collection is the varied leather patches, as well as the colorful “R” embroidery stitched horizontally on the back pockets. These design elements combine to give the collection an overall relaxed, free-spirited feel. The embroidery work utilizes plant-based dyes on the indigo denim, showcasing 45R’s thoughtful design and meticulous craftsmanship. “The wide variety and evolving nature of denim is what makes it so appealing. Finding the right pair of jeans for yourself may not be easy, but that’s what makes the search worthwhile. You might just find that perfect pair to be your loyal companion.”
