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A Token of Remembrance

Matcha Pudding

  • Words & Photography / Jo

那天起床,完成平日的例行家務事,坐下來看手機,方看見朋友鄰居沒多久前給我發了張照片,她在我家門外的櫃子上放一包咖啡豆,並留了個字條,寫着:「5月8日炒的,下星期中或尾便可以用了。」她曾經說過,咖啡豆炒好後要「熟成」,之後才可磨研沖泡。咖啡的科學我不懂,平常在家都喝用摩卡壼煮的濃郁意大利咖啡,不講究,但最近在別人家作客,喝到一款手沖咖啡,果香、酸度、朱古力風味、口感等等我都很喜歡,便心心念念想學習手沖咖啡。我後來在家裏找到一套咖啡手沖壺、濾紙和濾杯,只欠好的咖啡豆。

不久之前,另一位鄰居朋友在京都給我帶來焙茶濾包,那咖啡手沖壺便先用來泡茶吧。第一次用手沖壺,它的壺嘴細且長,我往打開了的焙茶濾包繞圈注水,不徐不疾地,水流與茶葉接觸時,高低快慢,形成不同的水聲,專注沖茶的數十秒,竟感到很平靜,這讓我更想試試手沖咖啡。沒過幾天,朋友便不動聲色送來好豆。她跟墨爾本一家咖啡焙豆店相熟,平常向他們訂購,咖啡豆炒好便空運送來,然後她想起我也喝咖啡,便給我一包。有一刻,我不禁讚嘆自己的念力好強,咖啡豆想想便有。

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可能我愛吃喝的形象已植入各朋友的心,大家旅遊時總給我帶來相關的手信。有人給我送了一隻很珍貴的陶瓷「飯碗」(我打開盒子發現那是茶道用的茶碗)、有來自北半球的特別麵粉、南半球的手工茄醬、採自台灣私人茶園的春茶、中東的香料、世界各地的調味料,以及甚至不同地方的時令水果蔬菜等等,最近還收了一個茶筅。沒有特別喜歡喝抹茶,卻在日本時意外參加了兩、三次茶道體驗課,早前朋友說她有個茶道班的空缺,問我要不要給她作伴,一起上半天課。茶道博大精深,不過數次體驗,當然連拿水勺的形態還未學到半分,但能跟朋友一起體驗還是很愉快。

回家後,我把新鮮抹茶粉放到櫃裏,與來自不同地方的茶葉放在一起。儘管天天喝茶,茶葉的消化速度遠不及添加的快,便偶爾以茶入饌,烤些糕點,與朋友分享。我看着廚房每個角落,很多瓶瓶罐罐都是別人送上的心意,想到朋友在旅遊時、甚至在城裏時也有想起自己,心頭一陣溫暖。食物也好,身外物也好,甚至從遠方傳來的一幀相片也好,不過是對方一份思念之物。有形無形,那種相互連結才是叫我們心裏動容的事。信也好不信也罷,若你想起我時,我也在想你。

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That day after I finished my morning routine, I sat down and checked my phone. My friend, who is also a neighbour of mine, sent me a photo not long ago, showing the bag of coffee beans she left on my cabinet at the front door. She also left a note – “The beans were roasted on 8 May and will be ready to use by mid- or end of next week.” She once told me that freshly roasted coffee beans should be “aged” for a while before grinding and brewing. I know nothing about the science of coffee. A cup of rich Italian espresso brewed by my trusty moka pot was what I always reached for at home. Fuss free. However, from a recent visit at someone’s home, I was so hooked by the pour over coffee they brewed. The fruitiness, acidity, chocolate note and body were so lovely that I have been musing on learning to make pour over coffee myself. Later, I found an amateur set of gooseneck pots, filter paper and a dripper at home. All I needed was some good coffee beans then.

Another neighbour friend brought me some hojicha drip bags from Kyoto a while back, so I started using the gooseneck pot for brewing the tea for now. It was the first time I used this kind of pot with such a narrow and elongated spout. I tore open the hojicha drip bag, gently and steadily, I poured water into it in circular motion, and when the stream of water touched the tea leaves, it formed sounds of water that differed by how high and low, and fast and slow of the pour. In the brief moment of tea brewing, unexpectedly, I felt a sense of calmness, which reinforced my wish for brewing pour over coffee. Then, in a few days, my friend brought over fine coffee beans without prior notice. She used to frequent a roastery café in Melbourne, and now orders coffee beans from it on a regular basis. The roastery sends over freshly roasted beans and she sent me some as she remembered I’m too a coffee drinker. For a second I was utterly taken aback by the power of my thoughts – coffee beans, think of it, then you have it.

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My fondness of food and drink is probably rooted in my friends’ hearts that they bring me such souvenirs from around the world – a fine ceramic “rice bowl” (which, I found out when unboxing it, was in fact a chawan used in tea ceremony), specialty flour from the northern hemisphere, artisanal tomato sauce made from the southern hemisphere, spring tea harvested in a secluded private tea farm in Taiwan, spices from the Middle East, seasonings of all sorts and even seasonal fruit and vegetables from different parts of the world. Now, I even own a chasen. As someone who is not particularly fond of matcha, I attended unplanned tea ceremony class two or three times in Japan, and a while back, I had another class with a friend when she asked if I wanted to join her. Traditional Japanese tea ceremony is anything but simple. A few trial classes would not have equipped me with the ability to even hold the water ladle gracefully. However, it was still a pleasant experience to spend time with a friend and learn something together.

After I got home, I put the freshly ground matcha powder into the kitchen cabinet alongside other teas from different places in the world. Despite my daily brew of tea, it is not catching up with the accumulation of the teas, so, I sometimes use it in cooking and make pastries to share with friends. As I glance around my kitchen, I see jars and packets of gifts from others. It fills my heart when I think of my friends having me in their mind when they travel or even in town. Be it food, material objects or even a picture sent from afar, they all are a token of remembrance. Whether it can be held in hand or not, it is the interconnectedness that touches us. And believe it or not, when you think of me, I am thinking of you too.

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抹茶布丁

材料 (二人份):
布丁用
魚膠粉 5克
滾水 10克
杏仁奶(用牛奶或其他植物亦可)1 杯/225克
砂糖 10克
抹茶粉 3克
雲呢拿香精 ½ 茶匙

白玉丸子用
白玉粉 100克
清水 90克
冰水 1 碗

其他
抹茶粉 1.5克
80°C 清水 60克
蜜紅豆 適量
脆米 適量

步驟:

  1. 製作布丁:魚膠粉加滾水,拌勻,靜置 5 分鐘。在小鍋內加入杏仁奶、砂糖、已篩過的抹茶粉、雲呢拿香精及魚膠粉溶液。以中火一邊攪拌一邊煮溶砂糖、抹茶粉及魚膠粉溶液。所有材料溶和後,倒入兩個器皿內,稍為放涼,雪藏至少 4 小時或過夜。
  2. 製作白玉丸子:所有材料放到碗內,拌勻至麵糰光滑。取 8 克麵糰在掌心,揉至小球狀,將其中一面輕輕按凹。可麵糰可製作約 24 顆白玉。
  3. 白玉放到沸水中煮 1-2分鐘,至浮起即可。撈出丸子放到冰水裏待用。未煮的丸子可以貯藏在冰格。
  4. 碗或茶碗內倒入熱水,用作暖碗,同時放入茶筅,以軟化竹枝,一分鐘後倒去暖水,稍為抹乾碗裏面。碗裏加入1.5克篩過的抹茶粉,加熱水,用茶筅以上下撥動的手法發打抹茶,猶如寫 「W 」,直至抹茶表面形成細小泡沫即可。
  5. 布丁脫模,放到淺碗內,隨心放入白玉丸子及蜜紅豆,在碗邊倒入抹茶,放上脆米即可。

Matcha Pudding

Ingredients (makes 2 servings):
For the pudding
Gelatin 5g
Boiling water 10g
Almond milk (can be replace with milk or other plant-based milk) 1 cup/225g
Sugar 10g
Matcha powder 3g
Vanilla extract ½ teaspoon

For the glutinous rice balls
Japanese glutinous rice flour 100g
Water 90g
Iced water A bowl

Others
Matcha powder 1.5g
80°C water 60ml
Candied red bean To taste
Rice crispy To taste

Steps:

  1. To make the pudding, melt the gelatin in boiling water, mix well and let it sit for 5 minutes. In a small pot, add almond milk, sugar, sieved matcha powder, vanilla extract and the gelatin mixture. Stir well over medium heat until the sugar, matcha powder and gelatin are well dissolved and combined. Pour the mixture into two containers and let cool for a while. Keep them in the fridge for at least 4 hours or overnight.
  2. To make the glutinous rice balls, add the ingredients into a bowl and mix well until it forms a smooth dough. Take 8g of the dough and roll it into a ball between your palms. Dimple one side of the rice balls. The dough will make roughly 24 rice balls.
  3. Bring a pot of water to a boil, put the rice balls in and let them boil for 1-2 minutes until they are afloat. Take the rice balls out and put them into the iced water. Uncooked rice balls can be kept in the freezer.
  4. Pour some hot water into a bowl or chawan to warm it and put the chasen into the bowl to soften the bamboo strands. Drain the bowl after a minute and pat dry the bowl. Add 1.5g matcha powder through a sieve into the bowl, add hot water and mix it with the chasen by an up and down movement like you are writing a “W” in the bowl until the tea turns frothy.
  5. Unmold the pudding into a shallow bowl, add the glutinous rice balls and candied red bean and pour the matcha from the side. Top it off with some puffed rice.

Jo Liu

It’s raining outside, crisp and bleak. Three chubby sparrows took shelter on my balcony and I gave them the baguette bits left on my breakfast plate but they flew away. I stayed in, played Damien Rice on vinyl and made apple crumble. Repeat.

Instagram: foodialoguehk

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