「美」除了能形容悅目的東西，也是一種貫徹感官的體驗，如視覺、味覺、聽覺和觸覺。有時候，「美」更是一種聯覺（Syn-aesthetics），是一種匯聚不同感官的體驗。對於「美」這個字的起源，不同的學者都各有說法，而在學者高建平（Gao Jianping）撰寫的〈The Original Meaning of the Chinese Character for “Beauty”〉中提出，「美」的表意符號早在三千年前已有人使用，字形是模仿頭戴裝飾的人。這樣聯想下去的話，頭上的裝飾是讓人美化、悅目的東西，就如珠寶首飾。
若由欣賞珠寶的角度來看「美」，視覺必定佔了最重要的位置。由觀察飾物的形狀、顏色，光線如何穿透或反射，穿戴在身體上時的搖曳舞擺，以及配搭不同的衣服時映照出美的昇華⋯⋯據說對藝術和美的鑑賞，能為大腦產生正面效果，所以觀賞美麗的珠寶會使人快樂也是真實的吧。
由珠寶藝術學院L’ECOLE舉辦的《美學之眸：千燈室珠寶珍藏展》能讓我們隨著「鑒賞家視角」來窺看「千燈室」珠寶收藏中神秘而珍貴的藏品，同時生動地呈現18世紀至當代歐洲珠寶的演進。「這展覽的源起，是我在Instagram看了一篇討論《千燈閃耀：跨越三百年的珠寶珍藏》一書的帖文，並引起了我的好奇而閱讀。它是由著名的藝術史學家Diana Scarisbrick撰寫，書中所述的藏品系列取名「千燈室」（Illuminata）有啟蒙開悟的意思，讓人更想發掘當中更多。後來，我才發現藏品主人的居所離我家只有十分鐘的路程，而我亦有幸結識她，這就像一場命運的相遇。」展覽的策展人兼Van Cleef & Arpels的亞太區總裁Nicolas Luchsinger說。
展覽名稱的意思除了是透過眼睛看到美之所在，也比喻了一段受美學薰陶的旅程，對收藏家如是，對前來觀賞的人也如是。在古時，人們往往把代代相傳的珠寶改造、更新，如調校手鍊的長度、把胸針改成頭冠，讓珠寶款式更貼近潮流和現實需要。「千燈室」的珠寶藏品中，許多都有靈活多變的設計：頭冠可化作項鍊、胸針可拆成多件小巧而迷人的飾品，能以穿者喜好、場合而自由地混搭，也是系列最大的特色。「無論是迷人的19世紀藍綠璣鏤紋琺瑯鑲鑽手鐲，還是鑲嵌不規則形狀的巴洛克珍珠和美鑽的Carnet製卵石形項鍊，這些精挑細選的臻品均體現工匠出類拔萃的手工造詣。」Nicolas說希望展覽為觀眾打開一扇窗，體會歷史與藏品的關係，也能欣賞到珠寶的歷史意涵。
展覽中展示珠寶的玻璃箱的設計如彎曲的道路，象徵著時間的流動，觀眾一邊走一邊看著珠寶設計的演變。由十八世紀到當代的珠寶、由西方到中國宮廷珠寶，這些珍貴的收藏品側寫了一些歷史故事和文化的底蘊，例如約1795年製、皇家藍的玻璃圓章上以玫瑰切割鑽石排列出「Souvenir」字母的手鍊，法語中有「請記住我」的意思。這是法國大革命後的作品，那時候大部分的首飾都會附有情感符號，藉此在盪不安的年代來表達個人情感。另外，為了展示珠寶與服裝的關係，展覽展出John Galliano設計的紫色縐紗雪紡連身裙，旁邊配搭約1820年製的彩色寶石首飾套裝，飄逸與通透的美麗，穿透玻璃箱，撼動了觀眾的內心。這閃閃發光的「美」，不止是一場悅目的體驗，也是美學、工藝和藝術的體現，開啟了觀眾對珠寶世界的眼界和想像。
Beauty extends beyond mere visual aesthetics; it encompasses a multisensory experience engaging sight, taste, hearing, and touch. There are instances where beauty becomes a synesthetic encounter, where different senses converge. Scholars have put forth various interpretations regarding the origins of the word “beauty.” In Gao Jianping’s article, “The Original Meaning of the Chinese Character for ‘Beauty,’” it is proposed that the symbolic representation of beauty, which resembles a person adorned with decorative headgear, was in use back over three thousand years. If the adornments worn on the head have the ability to enhance beauty, jewelry, too, can play a significant role in contributing to the concept of beauty.
When it comes to the appreciation of jewelry, visual perception undoubtedly takes center stage—observing the shapes and colors of the ornaments, how light interacts with and reflects off them, the graceful movements they exhibit when worn, and the awe-inspiring beauty they radiate when paired with various outfits. It is widely believed that the appreciation of art and beauty has positive effects on the brain, so it probably holds true that admiring exquisite jewelry can bring about feelings of happiness.
The exhibition, An Eye for Beauty: The Illuminata Jewelry Collection, presented by L’ECOLE School of Jewelry Arts, offers a glimpse into the enigmatic treasures housed within the Illuminata collection through the eyes of a connoisseur while showcasing the evolution of European jewelry from the 18th century to the contemporary era. “In the beginning, I came across a post discussing Illuminata: Three Centuries of Fine Jewellery 1720-2020, a mysterious book by renowned art historian Diana Scarisbrick. This discovery heightened my enthusiasm and determination to read it. The collection’s name, Illuminata, deepened my fascination with its connections of secrecy and enlightenment. Little did I know that the owner of this remarkable collection lived just ten minutes from me, and our paths would soon cross. Destiny played a significant role in our fortuitous meeting,” says Nicolas Luchsinger, the exhibition’s curator and the President of Van Cleef & Arpels Asia-Pacific.
The exhibition’s title holds a deeper meaning beyond the mere visual appreciation of beauty; it serves as a metaphorical representation of a journey shaped by aesthetics, for both the collector and the visitors of the exhibition. In ancient times, it was customary for people to modify and refine heirloom jewelry, such as adjusting bracelet lengths or transforming brooches into tiaras, in order to align the jewelry styles with prevailing trends and practical preferences. The Illuminata collection also features pieces with versatile designs, including tiaras that can be converted into necklaces and brooches that can be disassembled into smaller, exquisite accessories. This adaptability allows for personalized mix-and-match options, catering to the wearer’s unique tastes and occasion needs. “From the mesmerizing 19th-century bracelet adorned with diamonds on blue and green guilloche enamel to a pebble-like necklace signed by Carent, set with baroque pearls and diamonds, each selection within this curated ensemble bears testimony to exceptional craftsmanship.” Nicolas hopes that the exhibition would provide a window for the visitors to appreciate the interplay between history and the collection, along with the historical significance of jewelry.
The glass display cases in the exhibition are thoughtfully designed to resemble winding paths, symbolizing the passage of time. As visitors traverse these paths, they are transported through the journey of jewelry design evolution. The exquisite collection unveils captivating stories and cultural heritage spanning from the 18th century to the present, encompassing Western and Chinese court jewelry. An exceptional example is a bracelet from approximately 1795, featuring a royal blue glass medallion adorned with intricately arranged rose-cut diamonds that form the word “souvenir,” meaning “remember me” in French. This piece was crafted in the aftermath of the French Revolution when jewelry frequently incorporated emotional symbols, conveying personal sentiments amidst tumultuous times. Furthermore, to highlight the connection between jewelry and fashion, the exhibition showcases a purple chiffon gown designed by John Galliano, paired with a colored gemstone jewelry set dating back to around 1820. The ethereal and translucent beauty of this ensemble, pierces through the glass cases, leaving a lasting impression on the viewers. The sparkling beauty of the Illuminata collection goes beyond being visually pleasing; it serves as a tangible embodiment of aesthetics, craftsmanship, and artistry. It enriches the viewers’ perspectives and sparks their imagination within the enchanting world of jewelry.
“An Eye for Beauty, the Illuminata Jewelry Collection” Exhibition
Nov 13 2023 – Mar 31 2024
Free Admission
L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts
