Retrieve The Shades Of Nature

Patchwork Kamuel by 45R




When put on, it looks like work clothing of Japanese monks, but a closer look on the patterns on its surface points to a resemblance to knit Cowichan sweater from the Southwestern part of British Columbia. The two characteristics are combined to form Kamuel, which carries hints of traditional Japanese kimono; fabrics unevenly dyed and slightly worn out give it an aura of nature’s spirituality.

This season, 45R has taken inspiration from Navajo Chief rugs for designing its Kamuel coat, making use of Oxford cloth made from ultra-long organic fibre from the US coupled with Japanese traditional natural dyeing techniques. Apart from the signature Aizome, or indigo dyeing, it has employed dorosome, or mud-dyeing, a unique dyeing technique from Amami Oshima. Situated at the Southernmost part of Kyushu, Amami Oshima is currently the only area in the world using dorosome, which boasts more than 1300 years in history. The area is particularly well-known for its production of traditional silk fabric called Oshima Tsumugi. Craftsmen will first boil branches of yeddo hawthorn tree in a large pot to produce a liquid for dyeing the threads. After the threads are sufficiently dyed, the dorosome process follows. The tannic acid found in the hawthorn will undergo a subtle chemical reaction with the iron content found in Amami Oshima’s mud, whereby turning the threads into brownish black in color. The whole process has to be repeated more than one hundred times for a perfect brownish black color. In particular, the strength applied in the kneading process is based on artisans’ years-long experience and intuition, without which the woven products will not carry appealing layers of colors after dyeing.

The islanders of Amami Oshima believe that the rich iron content in the mud field is a gift from God, and tiny granules inside the mud is said to allow the the fabrics to absorb the iron content, thereby making it softer and smoother, and contributing to its fire and dust-resistant qualities. In addition, the fabrics pieces have been tightly woven together, and thus, the clothes are light, thin and warm. With the passage of time, its colors will even radiate personal flavors and it will also put on hues from the Great Nature.

Force ox patchwork Kamuel $12,995

45R  No.7, Star Street, Vincent Mansion, Wan Chai  2861 1145