Re-Carving Sneakers

The term “palimpsest” originates from the ancient Greek word παλίμψηστος, which means “scraped again.” In contemporary understanding, it has the meaning of recycling. Historically, it involved the utilization of animal skin as a writing surface, particularly during the medieval era when important texts were transcribed. When these manuscripts became obsolete, the original text would be scraped off, making way for new content. Archaeologists often rely on the faint remnants of the earlier writing to decipher and uncover historical records.

Helen Kirkum elaborates on the inspiration behind her Palimpsest series, expressing, “Palimpsest used to carry all these important stories and information through centuries on this one piece of leather hide. And I really like the idea that the leather within these sneakers also carries a lot of rewritten stories and memories.”

Helen studied footwear design at the University of Northampton, a city renowned as  the birthplace of traditional footwear design. During her time there, she learned how to make traditional shoes and brogues, and had the opportunity to work at the Grenson Factory. She then went on to pursue a master’s degree at the Royal College of Art, where she began to delve into more conceptual experiments and started “unmaking” shoes to explore construction techniques and experiment with different materials.

“I’m really interested in how shoes seem to have a life of their own, as if they have memories  embedded in the material; but shoes are also notoriously difficult to recycle. That’s probably why I started using old shoes as raw materials and developed my upcycling collection,” Helen explains.

“I wanted to challenge the traditional approach to shoemaking, so I began experimenting with pattern-making and I would gather random scraps of material and place them on paper to create models. This process helped me gain a deeper understanding of how shoes are designed. During my time at Adidas, I often utilized this technique when I felt stuck or lacking inspiration. I would just pick up some random things around me, fold and combine them together. By moving my hands and getting my brain to work, ideas would start flowing. It allows me to create something that you have never thought of before, something that has never been seen before. So it’s a really good creative tool, and I have taught it to people in large design firms and museums.”

Helen also offers online tutorials on Sneaker Sculpture, allowing people from all over the world to create shoes using household recyclable materials such as cereal boxes or milk bottles.

On the peninsula of London’s Design District, you’ll find an array of award-winning buildings with distinct styles, and nestled within it is a building that looks like a green metal square which houses Helen’s studio. “I think it looks like a cutting mat,” remarks Helen.

As we video chat, I take in the sight of Helen’s studio, a long space filled with boxes of shoes and samples. The sunlight streams through the windows, casting a warm glow on the surroundings. At the opposite end of the long desk, Yasmin, Helen’s right-hand person, is deeply focused on designing and creating patterns. Also present is Elliot, who takes on the primary responsibility in production. He frequently visits the TRAID recycling center to collect unsellable or partially intact old shoes, and upon returning to the studio, he sorts and deconstructs them, breathing new life into the materials.

“The way we work is quite unconventional. We seek out small-scale manufacturers and individuals who are open to challenges and share a passion for what we do because what we ask for is not always simple. Some of our partners are small design studios that have their own practice going on while also manufacturing for other people, so they have a good understanding of the design process. We also found a family-run factory in Portugal, run by an owner who is around my age. He is very in touch with fashion trends and global developments, which makes them a great fit for what we want to achieve.

Love Welcomes, a social enterprise that used to be our neighbor in Design District, hired disadvantaged women. Unfortunately, they have closed down. There is another footwear brand and a bag manufacturer in Design District. Together, we are all working towards building a strong community that helps us because I mean if we can just walk over the road and deliver our material and get bags back then that’s the dream. So it’s good to work with those sort of cool.” Helen explains.

One of the most memorable custom orders for Helen was when a client approached her with a collection of sneakers that had been worn to numerous festivals around the world. Each pair was adorned with bold and vibrant colors, representing the diverse journeys and experiences of the wearer. Initially overwhelmed, Helen managed to skillfully blend and integrate the diverse journeys represented by those sneakers, creating a design that resonated with the client’s experiences. It was a remarkable process that encapsulated the full circle of the client’s adventures.

The journey of upcycled design presents unique challenges compared to creating entirely new products. However, it is precisely this unwavering commitment that has garnered Helen to numerous accolades and collaborations with renowned brands. Her creations even caught the attention of Takashi Murakami, who wore her designs at the prestigious pop culture event, The Complex Con. Despite these achievements, competing with low-cost brands in the market remains a formidable task. Helen emphasizes the importance of honesty in this context, “You want to make good quality products, you want to use the best materials, all those things cost money. That’s why I believe in being super transparent by going the extra mile, such as showcasing the entire process through videos to help people understand the value behind it.”

Lastly, Helen offers a reminder: “Make sure to tie the laces together when bringing shoes for recycling!” This simple step can prevent the shoes from becoming separated, making them difficult to resell or repurpose.